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Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
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A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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High Anxiety T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Importance of Being Earnest, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Verschneidung Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wild Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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| Type: |
Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
| FA: | Wayne Crill, 2005 |
| Page Views: | 6,450 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Wayne Crill on Nov 5, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This spectacular route has steep, fun climbing on mostly good rock with great position overlooking the creek and the Milton Boulder. I use a severity/spiciness rating based upon hot chilies with three grades: i) Jalapeno is serious enough to require attention and can easily burn you if not careful; ii) Habanero is the famously hot pepper that can easily spoil one's day if not treated with proper respect; and iii) The Peruvian Rocoto pepper is the spiciest and most flavorful of the hot peppers, failure to overcome the associated risks will be regretful. I think the Chicken is a Jalepeno spicy route, with the added intro bolts. Were it not for some crumblies in the roofs, I, and others who have been on it would consider this route four star worthy.
Kickin' Chicken climbs the obvious crack system moving up and left through the roofs right of Wingshot and left of Wild Turkey in the amphitheater/alcove area at the bottom of the West Ridge. The route climbs the initial 40' of Wild Turkey then moves left through the large roofs to access the steep crack continuing for 40' more up and left to the ridgeline. From the alcove at the base of Blues Power and Wingshot, follow the ledge/break below the blocky magenta band ~ 40' right to a small exposed ledge, the turkey perch, overlooking the creek where Wild Turkey and Wishbone start. It is a good idea to set a belay here.
Climb the first 40' of Wild Turkey (5.11-) past four bolts added after the FA, to the underclings below Wild Turkey's crux bulge. Hang a long sling here and instead of climbing straight up over this bulge (as for WT), move left around the bulge and then up through an exciting boulder problem to access the left-angling crack system. Continue up and left with small cams along the steep crack to tricky moves escaping onto the headwall, then up 20 more feet of nice 5.8 in L.-facing dihedral to the ridgeline topout. A difficult to place nut (fixed) protects the boulder problem crux as you leave the bolts of Wild Turkey en route to the well protected crack proper.
It is very difficult to top rope this route because of the left angling nature of the line. However, if one wishes, a natural toprope anchor can easily be placed 20' below the ridgline in the crack just above the roofs at the bottom of the headwall. However a RP ascent should definately continue to the ridgeline as the last couple moves around the corner out of the roof and onto the headwall can be quite tricky when pumped! ENJOY!
Kickin' Chicken climbs the obvious crack system moving up and left through the roofs right of Wingshot and left of Wild Turkey in the amphitheater/alcove area at the bottom of the West Ridge. The route climbs the initial 40' of Wild Turkey then moves left through the large roofs to access the steep crack continuing for 40' more up and left to the ridgeline. From the alcove at the base of Blues Power and Wingshot, follow the ledge/break below the blocky magenta band ~ 40' right to a small exposed ledge, the turkey perch, overlooking the creek where Wild Turkey and Wishbone start. It is a good idea to set a belay here.
Climb the first 40' of Wild Turkey (5.11-) past four bolts added after the FA, to the underclings below Wild Turkey's crux bulge. Hang a long sling here and instead of climbing straight up over this bulge (as for WT), move left around the bulge and then up through an exciting boulder problem to access the left-angling crack system. Continue up and left with small cams along the steep crack to tricky moves escaping onto the headwall, then up 20 more feet of nice 5.8 in L.-facing dihedral to the ridgeline topout. A difficult to place nut (fixed) protects the boulder problem crux as you leave the bolts of Wild Turkey en route to the well protected crack proper.
It is very difficult to top rope this route because of the left angling nature of the line. However, if one wishes, a natural toprope anchor can easily be placed 20' below the ridgline in the crack just above the roofs at the bottom of the headwall. However a RP ascent should definately continue to the ridgeline as the last couple moves around the corner out of the roof and onto the headwall can be quite tricky when pumped! ENJOY!
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