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Rope management with doubles when belaying two seconds?!?

Adam D · · Los Osos, CA · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 40

I nearly always treat the 2 ropes as 1 and try to stack into one neat pile as much as possible (just as I would with a single rope) and avoid lap coiling etc unless it really is necessary.

When you're ready to unrope and coil things up but are staring at a stacked pile of 2 ropes together you can prevent a lot of tangles by having two people each work on stacking one rope into a neat individual pile simultaneously. Muy helpful.

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
Abram Herman wrote: Thanks for the info, I really don't have a problem using the 9.4's, however I'm sure doubles are even easier. "use a BD guide atc because I like the device better", is it just ease of feeding, or are there other benefits you like about the BD versus petzl?
I like the ATC guide better for two reasons. One, the reverso has a tendency to "lock up" when you pay rope out quickly. The guide pays out rope more smoothly. Two, the guide tends to give me better control for rappelling with skinny ropes than the reverso. Yes, I know that they make a reversino for small ropes, but I would prefer not to need to own two devices.
smassey · · CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

I use 9.4s and have no problems with them in the ATC Guide. Anything bigger than a 9.6 in autoblocking mode will give you elbow tentonitis by the end of a long route.
The new Reverso 3 is a much improved version of the original. The difference with the ATC Guide is that the anchor clip-in point is parallel to the rope slots, as opposed to perpendicular. Allegedly this helps the way the device lays against the wall, but I've not noticed any problems with the ATC Guide. The Reverso 3, unlike the original reverso/reversino, will take ropes down to 8mm or so, fine for skinny rope systems. Either of these devices will lock on skinny ropes in autoblocking mode (I've used my ATC Guide on 8.4s with no problems). If you're worried about control while rappelling on skinnies, just use an autoblock (or prussik) backup.
If you find yourself having problems pulling ropes through either device, even with skinny ropes, but are committed to climbing in a team of three (or are a guide), check out the Kong GiGi. You'll still need to carry another device to belay the leader or rappell, but it is the smoothest feeding autoblocking device. Some other company makes one too, but what/who escapes me.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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