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> Castlewood Cany…
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> Five & Dime Area
> Electric Kite Wall
Hoagie in Heaven aka The Crystal Cling
V8-9 YDS 7B+ Font
Avg: 3.7 from 7
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Routes in Electric Kite Wall
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Hoagie in Heaven aka The Crystal Cling V8-9 7B+ |
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Kite Arete V6 7A |
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Mig 28 V3 6A |
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Russell? Bob Horan? |
| Page Views: | 2,995 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | tcamillieri on Dec 19, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
The crux is doing an unfurling campus move from a crossed position on the jug to hit a decent sloper with the left hand. Begin on two small pockets and do a jump/swing move to a good pod, cross match, and do the crux.
This is in the top five in the Wood. Matt Lloyd on Climbing
vimeo.com/5850768 from Nelson Carayannis on Vimeo.
This is in the top five in the Wood. Matt Lloyd on Climbing
vimeo.com/5850768 from Nelson Carayannis on Vimeo.
Location
It is at the Electric Kite Wall. From the very first parking lot on the left (by the old house), go back to the road and hike about 50 yards past where the pavement ends and the dirt road begins. Go virtually straight uphill, there is not really a path, so be careful bushwhacking. If you hit the cliff band on the left side, you will see a cave with several chossy problems (that end on the ledge). You need to go about 200 yards (up canyon, i.e. north towards rt 86) to find the line.
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