Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m)
FA: K Cassidy, P Gallagher, E. Wiggans, '88
Page Views: 5,743 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 24, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

About .9 miles into Long canyon, on the right, you will see a striking series of crack and corner systems. There is a "loop" pull-off on the left side of the road. Hike slightly up-road and towards the rock on the right to intercept a trail system on the near side of a non-distinct approach ridge. I will probably find this, but sice the beginning of the trail is not obvious, you probably won't find it right away.

A distinguishing feature to aim for is a HUGE, square, black boulder sitting a few hundred feel below the wall, tipping at the edge of a small rotton cliff band below the climbing buttress. This rock is a few hundred meters below the base of Program Director.

Program Director can be identified as a clean, solid splitter with a slight offset, starting 30' up a 'mound' in a left-facing corner, and quickly opening up to a pleasant, solid crack-climb. The line zig-zags a little and the right side is offset (sticks out) about 6-10 inches in mmost places. Just as it gets enduro, a small jog in the crack seems to appear and give you a good resting foothold.

Great line, easier with bigger hands, will probably feel closer to 10+ for small hands. I had to fist-jam some of the moves. Tape or grind!

Rap from the anchor up top with two 60M ropes! No middle anchor is there.

Protection Suggest change

A set of TCU's down to 1", with 2 cams each up to 2.5", then perhaps 4 #3's and 6 or more #3.5's. That is to lead it in a single pitch. If you like your cams closer than 10' to each other, take more 2.5-3.5" cams. two 60M ropes are required to descend (no middle anchor)

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