Finding Boots for Denali this summer

im looking for a mountaineering boots that will keep my feet warm on denali this summer. any suggestions or what have you used that works?

Koflach Arctis Expe

That is what works well. Earlier in the climbing season you may need overboots.

Got a good warm jacket too??

Welcome to the party... I have been looking for a pair of plastic boots for so bloody long now i think i have gone crazy... The marketing strategies from the manufactures are so ingenious. They use all the high profile mountaineers to make us feel like we need a different products for each specific type of climb.. if you listen you end up with 3 different pairs.... I for one am lost... And i am not alone on this one... I have nearly bought and returned them all....
.. I recently bought a pair of Vasque Ice 9000..;. its exactly what i want after all the research, i find a pair on ebay going cheap.. $200 buy them and bam they dont bloody fit....
Its the price range that keeps me away from the big guns... Spantik/ baruntse and the like.. If you have the money Spantik seem like the way to go.... Or else just the Inverno if the route is not very technical...

does plastic need an over boot? why not just get like one of the 8000 meter series like olympus mons ?

Versatility man!!

I use my plastics all the time. The local peak in winter, shovel the drive way, Ice in Colorado, rowing the Colorado River in winter, Canadian Rockies, and high alt (Denali and Peru).

Extreme cold mountain boots will only do just that and cost twice as much.

900 bucks for the Olympus Mons EVO. Sheeesh!!!!

Old school bigwall guys have used old pairs on the big walls. And for sure on winter ascents.

Garrett.Canter wrote:does plastic need an over boot? why not just get like one of the 8000 meter series like olympus mons ?

Well, unless you're going earlier in the season, they'd be mucho overkill.

I'll ditto the Koflach, either the arctus expedition or the vertical (same shell, just different sizing). Then, put aside the heavier inner boot and get a nice thermofit. Lightest shell, lightest liner, boom, you got hotrods. Just dial in the size a bit larger for your feet swelling at altitude a little.

I really think if you time your trip for, say, late May or so and plan to be near the summit in June, then chances are you wouldn't need an overboot (and wouldn't go up in "that" kind of weather anyhow). That said, an overboot, like the OR, makes a nice camp booty and good insurance on summit day.

Nice thing about a light plastic boot set up, is, you'll get a bunch of use out of them for similar ventures.

Good luck.

what makes a plastic mountaineering boot different than an AT boot?

What size? I have a good pair of Klofach Artis I don't need. Size ten. They've been around the block but are in good shape. They claim it's the warmest one out there. Their perfect for Denali.

Garrett.Canter wrote:what makes a plastic mountaineering boot different than an AT boot?

DIN toe, buckles, funky forward lean. Usually heavier.

Some folks climb Denali in them. Especially folks who ski it...(!)

Koflach does not make boots anymore. They are great boots. I have a 9, 10, 11, and 12 that I would sell for the right price. I haven't thought that much about it yet. You would definitely want a thermo-molded liner for them. I second the OR overboots, they make amazing camp booties, throw a light down bootie inside and you are super toasty. I think I wore this sep up more then my boots on the mountain. Lowa and Scrapa both still make good plastics as well. Nice down jacket and puffy pants (I used synthetic) Integral Designs Denali pant) are a great addition.
Dallen

I used Spantiks w/o any sort of supergaiters in 2008 (might have been a "warm" year), they worked great, climbed great and are quite light. They kept my feet warm except for an alpine start from 14k up the Upper Rib. We played the sun game really well sleeping in until it warmed up, once the sun came up we were rarely cold. I was also able to get away with a 0F bag up to 14k and a 30F bag above that for our separate high camp @ 17k, as well as for a route up the south face...

look at things other than plastics. more comfortable and more available. take overboots unless you're wearing an integrated boot like the Sportiva Olympus Mons or Kayland 8001. keep all your toes.

I took Spantiks to AK last spring and found them to be comfortable and warm enough. Yeah, they aren't cheap, but I can say they are comfortable and good for cold, standing-around days here in CO (see: Ouray IceFestival).

More importantly, I wanted to ditto the comments about camp. I suggest putting the same thought (but not the $$) into a good system for camp. I had chilly feet and not-warm-enough booties. When I made ensolite foam footbeds for them, it changed my whole scene.

Enjoy!

thanks for everyone's help

The Spantik's are the most comfortable and warmest boot I've used. Koflack Expeds work well for Denali and if you can locate a pair of those with liners in excellent shape that's an inexpensive way to go. With my Spantik's I've also been able to use them as a single boot.
I just fit them with a thick foam insole and wear a thick sock for around camp as a camp bootie.

AT boots can be just as warm as the Kolack Expeds but the fit is generally different, tighter and may not be as suitable for high altitude work or for the long days you put in while on Denali. I've seen them up there and some people really like them. At least the Spantik's move and feel like a leather boot and for my feet at least are supremely comfortable.

Whatever you get make sure you have adequate room for toe movement, comfort and warmth. If your feet go south on you......well, you go south with them.