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Climbing Reference for Patagonia

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Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

Basically, I finally feel somewhat prepared to tackle some of the bigger objectives I have down here, probably next winter. However, I'm wondering how you reference this stuff. I've read plenty of AAJs, but is there anything more specific, i.e. guidebook-type things specifically for the Cerro Torre and Fitzroy regions?

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

Boy, good question. I would start with Google, you may find that someone has a website, especially for such a popular place. Another great reference is the AAJ website because you can search the AAJ's...makes research much faster.

I know RJ Secor has a book on climbing in S America...not sure if it includes Patagonia.

There might be some local authority that keeps track of climbs, like the Talkeetna ranger station in Alaska. It would be good to ask a veteran of the area for tips. Good luck!

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370
Mike Anderson wrote: It would be good to ask a veteran of the area for tips.
Good advice. No published guide for the Chalten area is available as far as I know. I would just wait until you get there, see what's in condition, then ask around the Chocolateria for details.
sberk4 · · concord, MA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Hmm...I have also tried to find a guidebook (more for fantasizing than anything else) and had no luck. Freddie Wilkinson has a piece ( thenamelesscreature.com/200…) on his website about the smaller spires (de la S, Rafael, etc) but that doesn't include the Torre group or Fitzroy He also has a few links on the page which I haven't checked out. But overall, the best bet is just going down there and hanging out at the Chocolateria or El Muro. Plus any guide could give you beta.

claytown · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 1,205

If you speak spanish this site has some good info:

climbinginpatagonia.freeser…

Fitz Roy Routes:

climbinginpatagonia.freeser…

Cerro Torre Routes:

climbinginpatagonia.freeser…

If you don't speak spanish you can use a website to translate whole pages, although they only work to some extent.

BTW you're gonna love it down there. Might also take a look at Frey (near Bariloche, Argentina) and Cochamo, Chile... both exceptional and MUCH better weather than south patagonia.

Clayton

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

I thought Greg Crouch wrote a pseudo-guide for Patagonia, but looking on Amazon it appears his book is a narrative of his adventures there.

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

Was there a Mountain Profile in one of the Alpinist issues? I looked at my stack, but don't have all of them. They had one for the Towers of Pain.

LB Mullin Jr. · · Gunnison, CO · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 105

There is a book "mountaineering in Patagonia" written by Alan Kearney that is a little dated but very informative. Not a pure guide book, as half of it is trip reports.

The only place I have been is the Paine and there is "the book" in Puerto Natales. It is a collection of topos written on scrap paper and napkins. Includes many different languages, but the best topos I've found.

erraticrock.com
Erratic rock is run by Americans that can help you get your hands on the book. Very helpful!

The alpinist has very good pics of the torres, but Im also unsure of the issue. I only have photo copies.

Sorry I have no beta for Argentina.

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370
LB Mullin Jr. wrote: unsure of the issue.
Fitz Roy by Rolo Garibotti: Alpinist 5
Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

Thanks everyone for your excellent replies. I have certainly talked to many Patagonia veterans, but it seems like I just get piecemeal advice (which I expected). Some good info on here, thanks a lot!

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

Mike, which Alpinist was the Torres Del Paine? Also, does anybody know of a library or something that has old Alpinist issues?

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

The AAC Library in Golden is awesome, if you live near by. They will mail stuff to you if you are a member, or if you pay.

I will look at my Alpinists when I get home and find the issue if someone doesn't beat me to it.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
Mike Anderson wrote:The AAC Library in Golden is awesome, if you live near by. They will mail stuff to you if you are a member, or if you pay. I will look at my Alpinists when I get home and find the issue if someone doesn't beat me to it.
Ditto the AAC library.

Alpinist 0 was pure Patagonia.

Edit to add Alpinist 18 featured the Central Tower of Paine.

Best book is probably "Patagonia - Terra magica per alpinisti e viaggiatori" by Buscaini/Metzeltin. In Italian. The back is full of climbing route descriptions. Pretty hard to find, though.

Jill Neate says, "the nearest thing to a guidebook to the mountains of Patagonia is contained in Buscaini's book, Patagonia: terra magica, pages 175-269. It includes many illustrations, maps and topos."

I have the hardbound edition (1987) but note that Chessler imports a newer paperback edition:

chesslerbooks.com/item/1096…

The Kearney book mentioned above is quite good too.

Speakin' of Jill Neate, a bit dated (1994) but the reference "Mountaineering in the Andes" is probably the best collection of references for climbing down there. If you're researching Patagonia and climbing, its a great place to start.

Edit to add: AAC library has both the Kearney and Buscaini books mentioned above. If you're a member...they ship them to you for free (all you have to do is pay return postage).

Good luck!

-Brian in SLC
Owen Darrow · · Helena, mt · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,790

Got to pataclimbing.com. All the beta you need combined with summitpost

ShibbyShane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 15

I think Owen meant pataclimb.com , not pataclimbing.com

Owen Darrow · · Helena, mt · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,790

Yep, thank you for correcting me!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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