Utah alpine ice fall 09

Thanks for the photos John! Got me psyched to head down there!!!

Got on The Fang in Provo Canyon today. Fragile stuff and melting pretty quick. Only able to do the first pitch as the rest was either too melted out or gone altogether. The rest of the line looks way fun though. Can't wait until it freezes again.
3rd pitch of Millers is almost totally gone (from the road).

Nice article Willis, Darren, Jason, and Steven:

Scaling Mountainous Ice
Daily Herald front page - Monday, Dec. 21, 2009

Climbed Bridal Veil Left and Right and White Nightmare today. All were in good/great shape. White Nightmare was a bit picked out on the first pillar but made for fine hooking.

Did you enjoy the snow?

We did. 2 maybe 3 inches during the day, at most. No wind in the ampitheater. Not another person all day. Good fun.

Anyone know what the short mixed line right of White Nightmare is and how hard? Any idea where to get a copy of the Utah mixed guide?

Did the first 2 pitches on Stairway today. Even though it was beat out some (nice easy hooking), the ice was pretty darn good. If it stays chilly, it should stay in shape for a while. Talked to a guy rapping from higher up who said the conditions were some of the best he ever had up there. Amazing how fast ice conditions change isn't it?

cdec
the short mixed line to the right of White Nightmare is called La Punta Blanca and if I remember correctly its like M5 or M6.
as for the mixed guide, I would call some of the local shops and see, I know Mountainworks is sold out but some of the others might have it, or maybe give Nathan Smith a ring.

cdec

There are 2 climbs right of white nightmare. The one coming straight down the fall line from the chains in La Santa Blanca M4 (has a long power draw), then further right in the corner is La Santa Blanca M5.

It is really hard to rate the one just to the right of White Nightmare as the ice of the main climb can form partially onto this mixed route making it a lot easier, (m4-m5).

Mat Gover wrote:cdec There are 2 climbs right of white nightmare. The one coming straight down the fall line from the chains in La Santa Blanca M4 (has a long power draw), then further right in the corner is La Santa Blanca M5.

Does anyone know if "Frozen Assets" is in or if it's on it's way?

Thanks for the info on the "Blancas".

Also we found two screws in the parking lot at the GWI on Thursday 1/7. PM me with a description and I will gladly get them back to you.

GWI is Huge.

I'd bet that it's in.

Just got back from checking out "Frozen Assets" in North Creek Canyon.
It didn't look like anyone had hiked in since the last snowfall. The canyon itself is somewhat dense with trees and there didn't seem to be an obvious established path/trail.
The climb is not completely in yet. The upper pitches were getting there, but the first pitch didn't quite reach the bottom and seemed to mostly be thick vainer.
Oh well, maybe in a few more weeks...

The 50 degree temps in Utah Valley this week have done some damage on the first pitch of Soft n Juicy. It's virtually unclimbable at this point unless you're wanting to dry tool the top of the pitch.

Christian,

From what I understand, Frozen Assets is mostly a snow melt climb? Seems early season (and a dry one) for that one. Amiwrong?

zoso wrote:Christian, From what I understand, Frozen Assets is mostly a snow melt climb? Seems early season (and a dry one) for that one. Amiwrong?

Yeah, I knew that. But I wanted to go see it for myself. I had not ever seen it close up, or even really gone up the canyon itself. I am trying to post some pictures though just as an FYI for everybody. I had made it a goal this season so I just want to keep tabs on it. Anyone want to go do it with me when it is in?