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Moonlight Buttress beta

Original Post
coloradotomontana Erley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 75

I am looking to climb moonlight buttress next week. We don't have a ledge and as its probably too cold to free climb (if I could climb that hard),so it is going to be a 2 day affair. Is that ledge atop pitch 5 suitable for 2? I heard it is a one person bivy but with a little spooning could we make it work? Also any info on nuances of climbing this route in winter vs summer would be helpful (i.e. crossing the creek, ect.)

Thanks in advance,
Pat

Norm Larson · · Wilson, Wy. · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 60

I've slept(kinda) on that ledge twice. Once before portaledges were invented! and once many years later after I forgot how small it was and convinced my wife that there was a good ledge up there, it'll work if you are getting along with your partner and are looking to build character. I would think the creek wouldn't be a problem in winter but I'm sure someone will give you more beta.

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,183

Why don't you just fix & fire?

Hotels are cheap this time of year.

k. riemondy · · Denver, Co · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 80

creek beta: bring a small hand towel to dry your feet.

Don't bivy up there without a portaledge. You will be cold and uncomfortable for a very long night.

The route can go in 7 pitches. The first day climb p1-3, fix two ropes down to the ground. If you have time fix the 180ft p4 also. Fire the next day with an early start. Once to the "bivy" ledge atop the chimney (p5) it is two ~190ft pitches to the top. Wear free shoes for the last pitch for the .7 slab.

Bring extra orange and yellow tcus.

After p5 the route can go really fast if you aggressively backclean and top step.

Have fun!

John McNamee · · Littleton, CO · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 1,690

The ledge is pretty narrow and with the short daylight hours I personally wouldn't do it. It would be a long night. You could climb to the Rocker block and rappel off, then come back the next day and be at the RB at daylight and go from there to the top which you can do in 4 pitches.

J. Thompson · · denver, co · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,425

How fast are you? Have you done much aiding?

You probably don't even need to fix and fire...just fire.

The first 3 pitchs go as fast as jugging 350 X 2 people.

Plus if your just planning to aid, and it gets dark just keep climbing.

Take a down jacket for the belayer and have a blast!

josh

BC85 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

Check the snow status in Zion as well too... A buddy of mine were planning on doing spaceshot but heard there is about 2 ft of snow at the base of the route. Good luck have fun

coloradotomontana Erley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 75

Does anybody know the current snow conditions on the route/the base of the route? Thanks for the info everyone.

steve edwards · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2004 · Points: 645

Was there today. Space Shot is fine. You might have to deal with a little snow below Moonlight. You'll have a towel anyway, right?

coloradotomontana Erley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 75

Haha yea will that would be sweet if you could just give it to me... but Ill just use my hand towel to sleep in.

perropirana Santibanez · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 25
Will Anglin wrote:I'll sell you a ledge Patty-poo! :)
what kind of ledge?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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