Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | 1st Pitch K. Stricker and R. Woolf 02/05, 2nd pitch K. Stricker and C.Jones 2/08 |
Page Views: | 609 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Kevin Stricker on Jan 1, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Desperado is a two pitch variation to Queer Bait. Start as with Queer Bait but go straight up at the first bolt past a sustained 5.10+ thin section and a hard to clip bolt. Run it out 20 feet on easier 5.8 climbing to a no hands rest on a knob at another bolt. Climb back right clipping another bolt, then back left to a lunge for a jug in a horizontal break (5.11 R). Mantle and run it out another 10 feet to a right-facing flake (#1 Camalot on right side) then up to a cable anchor on a rock spike. 170 feet 5.11 R. Move belay up easy terrain to the base of the Queer Bait offwidth, place a 0.75 cam and big stopper in alcove to the right of the crack and extend the belay down to the ledge below.
P. 2 - Climb up the left face of the QB's OW, starting about 15 feet left of the crack below several horizontal seams. Climb up through the seams, placing small Aliens, and work up to the first bolt. Make bouldery moves up and right to a second bolt, then crux moves slightly left and back right to a big jug. Place a red Alien then traverse 5 feet right to finish on the QB corner above the OW. Set up a belay on the left above the corner (medium cams, stoppers).
P. 2 - Climb up the left face of the QB's OW, starting about 15 feet left of the crack below several horizontal seams. Climb up through the seams, placing small Aliens, and work up to the first bolt. Make bouldery moves up and right to a second bolt, then crux moves slightly left and back right to a big jug. Place a red Alien then traverse 5 feet right to finish on the QB corner above the OW. Set up a belay on the left above the corner (medium cams, stoppers).
Location
Traverse up and right to the far right side of the upper ledge and belay at a two chain bolt anchor (behind the block) to rappel or continue up on Queer Bait and walk off. If you rap, a single line will not get you all the way to the ground, but it is easy to down climb the last 30 feet down a gravelly groove.
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