All Locations > Colorado > Grand Junction… > Colorado Nation… > Monument Canyon

Mormon Tea

Name: Mormon Tea
Rating: 1.5

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Monument Canyon

L › R R › L A › Z

	Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Carter Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Circle, Square, and the Triangle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crispy Corner V-easy 3
	Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3-
	Desert Solitaire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0
	Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Mormon Tea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R
	Pina Colada V2 5+
	Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Snake Eyes V1 5
	Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Wide Load AKA Industrial Strength T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Willis, Jenter (June 1985)
Page Views:	2,363 total · 12/month
Shared By:	DaveB on Mar 22, 2008
Admins:	Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

What appears to be a nice moderate warm-up will likely leave you disappointed. At the base, stay near right-leaning crack and climb on subpar rock to ledge. Eventually work left and up to left-facing dihedral with flaring crack and hand-sized pods. After protecting (PG-13), grunt your way by whatever means around bulge to gain easier ground and bushwhack to belay ledge with tree. (The sandy nature of the rock - footwork - makes getting around the awkward bulge much harder than expected.)

If you must climb this route, I recommend walking off. Near the top lip of the route, you will see numerous deep rope gouges and gullies in the soft rock just below the anchor tree. These ruts, plus the un-rap-friendly nature of the tree & retrieval angle, will cause your rope to become nightmarishly stuck!...which of course, leads to the requisite tantrums and swearing! ;-) Save yourself the hassle and just walk off.

Location

One of the first vertical crack/dihedrals along the trail. The route is easily seen on the right as one passes about 100 yards or so of the Lower Monument Canyon Slabs (see photo).

Bjornstad's Desert Rock III mentions a fixed piton near the beginnning, but we did not see it. (Perhaps other folks can add clarity in this regard....)