Spontaneous Order
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 52 votes
Type: | Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (April 2008) |
Page Views: | 6,767 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Nov 25, 2008 |
Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
An outstanding link up that combines pitches from 4 different routes to climb the western wall of the Central Gully. All belays are positioned at spacious ledges with tremendous views. The summit is spectacular.
While the climbing is not as continuous or quite as high quality as P.I.H., the length and diversity of climbing makes this one of the single best outings in the Fortress.
Pitch 1: Footprints (5.4)
Pitch 2: Blue In Green (5.6 PG13)
Pitch 3: Choose between Magali's Arete, the right-hand variation, and
Rational Expectations, on the left (both 5.7)
Pitch 4: Seven Steps to Heaven (5.10a)
While the climbing is not as continuous or quite as high quality as P.I.H., the length and diversity of climbing makes this one of the single best outings in the Fortress.
Pitch 1: Footprints (5.4)
Pitch 2: Blue In Green (5.6 PG13)
Pitch 3: Choose between Magali's Arete, the right-hand variation, and
Rational Expectations, on the left (both 5.7)
Pitch 4: Seven Steps to Heaven (5.10a)
Location
Climbs the right-hand (western) wall of the Central Gully. Approach as for Footprints.
There are 2 possible descents:
Option 1: Rappel the route that you climb, except rappel from the top of Blue In Green to the bottom of Snickerdoodle and then scramble to the top of Footprints (Blue In Green is over 100 feet long!!!)
Option 2: Rappel into the Right Side Gully utilizing anchors on Adaptive Expectations, Capitalism & Freedom, and Free to Choose
There are 2 possible descents:
Option 1: Rappel the route that you climb, except rappel from the top of Blue In Green to the bottom of Snickerdoodle and then scramble to the top of Footprints (Blue In Green is over 100 feet long!!!)
Option 2: Rappel into the Right Side Gully utilizing anchors on Adaptive Expectations, Capitalism & Freedom, and Free to Choose
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