Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Atom Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm)
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 30
votes
Routes in Below The Old New Place
|
|
[Redacted] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Atom Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Instant Dogma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
P.M.S. S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Route 26 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Scandinavian Airlines S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Peter Gram and Tom McFarlane, 7/87 |
| Page Views: | 3,318 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
In my opinion, the best of the 12a's at BTONP. Not as long as some, but by far the most sustained. It's on from the first bolt to the anchor.
Scramble up the ledge to begin. You may want a piece of gear to start, or haul your stick clip up to the ledge to clip the first bolt, or solo up the crack 2 moves to clip the bolt. Head straight up on awesome sculpted pockets and thin crimps. Long sequential reaches on incut but small holds lead up the ever steepening wall. Near the top the holds dwindle and the movement becomes more desparate. Stay left until its possible to snag the top edge of the cliff, then traverse right two feet to the chain anchor.
Obviously the dihedral crack is 'off', but I used it to get to the first bolt, and it seems, based on the chalk, that everyone else does the same.
Scramble up the ledge to begin. You may want a piece of gear to start, or haul your stick clip up to the ledge to clip the first bolt, or solo up the crack 2 moves to clip the bolt. Head straight up on awesome sculpted pockets and thin crimps. Long sequential reaches on incut but small holds lead up the ever steepening wall. Near the top the holds dwindle and the movement becomes more desparate. Stay left until its possible to snag the top edge of the cliff, then traverse right two feet to the chain anchor.
Obviously the dihedral crack is 'off', but I used it to get to the first bolt, and it seems, based on the chalk, that everyone else does the same.
7 Comments