Black Magic Woman
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 99 votes
Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Christian Burrell, Tristan Higbee, April 2008 |
Page Views: | 5,531 total · 28/month |
Shared By: | Tristan Higbee on Apr 18, 2008 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
A fantastic climb with perfect rock, a short approach, and awesome moves. Start at the base of the arete and climb past a couple bolts. The business starts after the second bolt. Get your feet up high, grab the big undercling/sidepull jug with your left hand and pinch an undercling a couple inches above that with your right hand. Hold it all tight while reaching up to a lousy pinch on the arete with your left hand. Re-adjust your feet and lunge for the jug out to the right. Footwork is key. Continue past a couple more bolts to the top, turning back onto the left side of the arete to use Black Rose's chains. The top of the climb is slightly runout but easy at 5.7ish.
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