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Routes in Table Dome
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Beggar's Banquet T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bistro Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Table for Two T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Three Draws and a Little Lady T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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unnamed unfinished T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Wily Javelina T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Will McCarthy (1991) |
| Page Views: | 5,857 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Luis Cisneros on Mar 18, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! Dogs Not allowed
Details
The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon. Dogs are not allowed per land owner request.
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
Description
This is a phenomenal line that wanders up a low angle wall. This canyon offers fantastic views. The line itself is very fun and climbs on different kinds of granite on every pitch.
The bolts are a bit spaced, but this is not a problem if you are a comfortable 5.9 climber. If you get lost, keep looking, in most cases you should be able to spot the next bolt from any given one. When the route is not clear, the climbing is easy, so just follow the 'easy-way' up and you surely will find the next bolt or belay station. All anchors are bolted.
The first pitch is kind of the hardest one for your head, and maybe the most sustained one. The rest will feel more smooth and consistently easy face climbing, though a bit flaky in places and a few short crux moves here and there... nothing is harder than 5.8/5.9(-)
The last pitch finishes on the big ledge under the rock feature on the top. You can scramble around the west side of this feature to summit. Great views from there, is really worth it!
The bolts are a bit spaced, but this is not a problem if you are a comfortable 5.9 climber. If you get lost, keep looking, in most cases you should be able to spot the next bolt from any given one. When the route is not clear, the climbing is easy, so just follow the 'easy-way' up and you surely will find the next bolt or belay station. All anchors are bolted.
The first pitch is kind of the hardest one for your head, and maybe the most sustained one. The rest will feel more smooth and consistently easy face climbing, though a bit flaky in places and a few short crux moves here and there... nothing is harder than 5.8/5.9(-)
The last pitch finishes on the big ledge under the rock feature on the top. You can scramble around the west side of this feature to summit. Great views from there, is really worth it!
Location
The route starts close bellow of some brown water streak marks on the middle-right side of the wall. There is an obvious roof at the base of the streaks. The first bolt of Wily is about 30 feet left of the roof. This bolt is about 30 feet up from the base but the climbing is easy (the actual roof is the first pitch of Table for Two).
From the top, there is a rap line (5 raps) down over Table for Two that is save and goes straight down. You will need two ropes to rap down.
From the top, there is a rap line (5 raps) down over Table for Two that is save and goes straight down. You will need two ropes to rap down.
Protection
The line is all bolted. A few nuts and plenty of slings for chicken heads come handy.
All the anchors are bolted.
on march 24 2017 Bob Crawford and Josh Thrash put quick links and 3/8 rappel rings on all belay stations of Wily Javelina and removed the old webbing wads. Bob Crawford, Valdez alpine club.
Also, most bolts are new.
All the anchors are bolted.
on march 24 2017 Bob Crawford and Josh Thrash put quick links and 3/8 rappel rings on all belay stations of Wily Javelina and removed the old webbing wads. Bob Crawford, Valdez alpine club.
Also, most bolts are new.
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