Mountain Project Logo

Acceptable cord diameter for anchors

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751
Buff Johnson wrote:What would be the true test of the 6 considering the anchor in entirety? While a single component can easily be measured, the anchor is a load distributor. What can the entire anchor take if loaded in the direction intended?
buff-

assuming the 6mm could handle each arm effectively, i would feel comfortable with it as a whole. theoretically, the 6mm cord could behave a little differently than the 7mm cord when the entire equalized anchor is considered (for example, individual arms might stretch a bit more or the entire anchor might lose a bit more strength when the knot is tied) - but my guess is that these differences wouldn't have a significant impact in real-world application. if you really would like an answer, i could pull test some 6mm anchors and find out for sure.

again, though, since i use 7mm nylon, it's not something that i have really put a lot of effort into researching.
Mark Goodro · · Puget Sound, Washington · Joined May 2009 · Points: 565

When I only climbed with skinny guys I used 6mm. Now that I regularly climb with normal sized guys, and often have 2 seconds, I use nothing but 7mm.

Jason Partin · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined May 2008 · Points: 85

6, 7, or 8 mm... most seem to use 7mm nylon.

But, has anyone EVER heard of an anchor chord breaking? Seriously... the only anchor failures I've heard of (and I have looked into this...) involved the protection pieces popping after other errors.

I'm not being a jerk, I'm seriously interested in if this is a legitimate concern?

Happy Climbing

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "Acceptable cord diameter for anchors"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started