Remove Pro

Climbers,

Technique Question:

In deteriorating weather, I find myself resting from time-to-time on
my placements and seem to get them dug in pretty well.

In winter scenarios, traction just isn't as secure as I would like to permanently stay off of the life support.

How can I prevent pro from being (painfully) dug-in by placement technique?

Is the stuck-nut a sign that I don't know how to distribute weight correctly?

Where are you climbing? The type of rock can make a big difference.

Todd Morrison wrote:How can I prevent pro from being (painfully) dug-in by placement technique?

It sounds like you're asking for a way to modify how you place gear so it doesn't get stuck, is that right? If so, I guess that elminates the obvious answer of "don't hang on your gear." And of course the other obvious answer is that leaving a stuck piece is better than having it pop and go for the Big Ride; but I don't expect that's what you're looking for.

Other than telling you not to overcam your cams (using a cam too large for the placement), it's really hard to address this as a question of placement technique. So I'd recommend you focus on honing your cleaning technique instead.

A lot of people tend to go directly to brute force in cleaning a stuck cam or nut and end up making it stuck even worse. Instead, be patient and take your time; look closely at the placement and the geometry of the stuck piece in relation to the rock. Think of the direction of force (hanging/falling) that welded the piece and work in the opposite direction. Maybe instead of tapping the bottom of the nut, a tap to the side will free it up. With cams, use your nut tool to pull on one of the trigger wires, or to pry on one of the cams itself; see where you've got a little movement and exploit it a millimeter at a time.

I've souvenired pieces other people have given up on just because I'm willing to be patient and not just hammer away. Good luck.

JL

Sink 'em, ... let the second get it out.

mcarizona wrote:Sink 'em, ... let the second get it out.

I've found girlfriends really don't like this method.... :)

John Maguire wrote: I've found girlfriends really don't like this method.... :)

They don't seem to like much of anything to be totally honest, but maybe that just my own personal experience.... ;<.

In response to the actually question, if you're using nuts, the more you put in (as long as they're equalized) the less they'll each set. I prefer to put my weight on a cam and use nuts as backups, way easier to clean up and go.

John Maguire wrote: I've found girlfriends really don't like this method.... :)

They really love it when you tell them they are wrong when they can't get your piece out and you rap back down to get it. Funny thing is I think I would rather stay down there forever rather than come back up and say she was right....

But she's always right :)

Might I add that the Eugene Columns are closed at night, which might be why you can't find any of the local "rock jocks" to train with at that time. Please comply with the night closure so as not to piss the city off at the rest of us climbers. I will be down there for xmas if you need a daytime partner. send me an email if you want to hook up at the columns for some lead climbing

jshappart at g m a i l dot c o m

What you describe is toproping. With a "main line" that the ascender slides up, and a second line with F8 loops in it. Yes?

So what good is the pro that you're placing going to do??????

BTW, if you clip a chest harness through the upper hole of the ascender (bottom hole is attached to the belay loop), and put some weight on the bottom of the main line, the ascender should slide smoothly up the rope as you climb. And a TR fall will not damage your rope - the device is made for this use, and many climbers have logged countless falls on the system.

Great Oogglie Booglies,

Todd, I think you need to get an experienced partner. The internet is no place to learn solo climbing, lets not kill him over the internet. I will be at the columns the week before/through xmas. Lets hook up and I can show you a thing or two about solo toproping at the columns. I learned to climb there exactly 20 years ago last summer, and have logged a brazilian feet solo toping there with a very simple system as hommie just described above. But there are a couple trixs and things to know best learned in person so you understand exactly the do's and don'ts
Shapp