screamers?
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pacoarg9 wrote:Would someone mind briefly explaining what screamers do and how they help?A nylon webbing structure consisting of one large loop sewn up in multiple places to make a shorter length. In the event of a fall the stitching of the sewn sections purposefully rip apart, absorbing some of the fall energy and decelerating the climber. -taken from : en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gloss… |
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pacoarg9 wrote:Would someone mind briefly explaining what screamers do and how they help?also check out the Yates site. |
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pacoarg9, |
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They are also incredibly good at keeping us in tune with the alpine start. |
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WiledHorse wrote: also check out the Yates site....but do not spend too much time on their data table, which is just wishful thinking. |
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brenta wrote: ...but do not spend too much time on their data table, which is just wishful thinking.Do you know any realistic data regarding screamers? |
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data schmata. they do what they were designed to do. |
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uh, yes; duration is a key component in this game; I guess the most used way to address it is by going with the fall factor. |
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I used to put them on almost every screw when I was leading .. a zipper screamer on the first one after the belay, and then regular or shorty screamers on successive screws. |
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divnamite wrote: Do you know any realistic data regarding screamers?One set of experimental results (as opposed to a tabulation of three formulae) is here. |
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WiledHorse wrote: never got to share with you the outcome! i remember us tossin around the idea of campin with you for the night, it was so cold, we werent prepared, and was worried of not being able to move. good thing, because it took me about 8 hours to hobble out, popping advil every 30 min. the next day i was so stiff and i couldnt walk for a week. nothing was broken, no internal bleeding. my right side was one big bruise. wow. i still dont know how i held on to my tools (leashed to me). one tool poked through 4 layers of clothes but did not break my skin. somehow in the course of falling past my partner, the rope got core-shot (with several strands cut too) along with the core-shot section that laid over the biner... and i still have that piece of rope as a reminder... we measured from the cut to my tie-in and thats how we approximated the fall distance (60-70 feet total). yikes! almost a factor 2... but the screw held (thank the Lord) but was a banana, placed 4 feet off the belay. glad i did, or i most likely would have ripped my partner off too! still thankful of his catch. i blacked out for a little less than a minute when i finally stopped!Jeebus dude! Try not to do that again for my heart's sake. Glad it worked out. Evan |
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WiledHorse wrote: never got to share with you the outcome! i remember us tossin around the idea of campin with you for the night, it was so cold, we werent prepared, and was worried of not being able to move. good thing, because it took me about 8 hours to hobble out, popping advil every 30 min. the next day i was so stiff and i couldnt walk for a week. nothing was broken, no internal bleeding. my right side was one big bruise. wow. i still dont know how i held on to my tools (leashed to me). one tool poked through 4 layers of clothes but did not break my skin. somehow in the course of falling past my partner, the rope got core-shot (with several strands cut too) along with the core-shot section that laid over the biner... and i still have that piece of rope as a reminder... we measured from the cut to my tie-in and thats how we approximated the fall distance (60-70 feet total). yikes! almost a factor 2... but the screw held (thank the Lord) but was a banana, placed 4 feet off the belay. glad i did, or i most likely would have ripped my partner off too! still thankful of his catch. i blacked out for a little less than a minute when i finally stopped!Yup, that was quite the day, glad Darren placed that screw on the easy section or else we both would have gone for a ride to the ground. Eli - I have never got to properly thank you for the help that day, much appreciated and I hope to pay it forward. As for dynamic belay, I remember having time to take in about 10ft of rope as D flew over me, then I just held on tight and got completely rocked (saw blue stars, etc.). My comment to the forum is be meticulous about your screw placements, the quality of ice, the angle, the behavior (cracking - tension - compression), layers, hollow spots...you get the point. Then clip a screamer to it if needed. Haven't been chasing ice much since slogging through canyons and mtns in AK, mostly chasing kiddos these days and some rock. Hope to see you guys out there, all the best. Steve-o |