Update on McDowell Mountains Access

Speaking of new developments out there, there are some suspicious roads and cul-de-sacs shown in google maps NW of 128th and Paraiso

google maps link here

Roman,
That's Serena Canyon. But... all of the private land in Scottsdale will be developed, and as soon as the lenders start funding again you will see bulldozers all up and down 128th Street. Yes, there are already planned and approved subdivisions on all of the private land in the immediate area. With land valuations at over $200,000 per acre, it's no wonder.
Let's give credit to the preservationists in Scottsdale for seeing that coming in the early 1990's and taxing themselves to buy the land in order to preserve it. The boundaries of the Preserve are on the hiking maps I linked above. It is highly unlikely that it will be possible to expand those boundaries. All else will be developed.

Marcy,
I'm pushing the City staff for the largest number parking places that the land planners see as the likely demand. I believe that it the lower end of the first stage will be at least 100 parking places, in a number of smaller parking "nodes" scattered between Sven Slab and Morrell's Wwall. At least that should minimize the impact. At any rate, the City has hired a land planner to lay out the North Access Area and we can have impact on what they come up with. (in the context of the Preserve mandates and the demand Scottsdale residents will also place on the area).
If anyone wants maps, etc., contact me offline at smorefil@aol.com.

I'm in total agreement that if we can break the total number of parking spots into some smaller parking nodes that are scattered a little bit, it would help protect a bunch of things we're discussing. And I feel that we probably should swallow hard and try to get the largest number of parking spaces we can so climbers, and others, aren't squeezed out. 200 works for Pinnacle Peak and might be reasonable here.

how to help - one line of input you all have just made - I'll be sure to keep pushing that type of approach with city staff when I interact with them in my various roles with the City and associated groups. I will also be mentioning it to the current Preserve Commissioners who are the formal citizens oversight committee.

A couple of months ago when city staff hired the planner, they said they wanted to make sure that climbers were involved in the trail head design. I gave them the names on my mcdowell climbers advisory panel (you know - the gym owners, guidebook authors, first ascentionists, forum moderators, climbing store owners). They took that list and compiled it with a list of other folks who have contacted them (including guide services). I believe that their intent is to hold a small "focus group" of leading climbers who they can bounce ideas off of. The meetings will be more related to trail head design than to Preserve climbing issues, but we probably can use the occasion to reinforce what we feel about the bigger picture. They will probably be calling their list (I don't have any more say that what input they asked for already) for a meeting after the land planner has about 10% of the design done.

They will then take the feedback and incorporate it into the design plans they will take through their standard city planning and design approval processes. I think that construction for the North Access Area may still be 18 months or more off, but at least we are moving forward.

Is there any talk or discussion on access to Gardeners, Morrells, in respect to climber designated trails such as Pinnacle Peaks. Maybe this has been discussed, but I haven't read through all the posts. Or is it okay to just access it via the old climber trails, off this new one.

Personally, I like the climbers only sign and trail that is on Pinnacle Peak, as it keeps (as Tradster says) the pretty people away.

Hi folks,
A great group of over 20 AMC'ers and McDowell Sonoran Preserve Stewards worked together today to place trail signs and markers at the trailheads to the Morrell Parking area for Morrell's Parking Area climbs and Morrell's Wall. They also placed signs at the trailhead for the Mesquite Canyon climbs (Girlie Man and Sven Towers areas). They also dug in and stabilized the climber paths. This was made possible by a grant from the Access Fund. All in all eleven trail signs were placed. It should make getting around a whole lot easier.
A special thanks all around.
Future projects will involve better signage for climbers in the Tom's Thumb cirque.
Rock on!
Erik

Ian,
hmmmmm. I'm not sure Lost Wall would be best (assuming you have Phx Rock II and see what it involves you can decide). in order to top rope for beginners, the classic crag in Sven Slab. you can get to the top by scrambling around climber's left and traverse to the large eye-bolt. Also, it is possible to set up top ropes on Back to the Wall and the other 5.7 in Morrell's Parking area (now signed. go toward Lower Morrell Wall parking area and scramble to top of the crag).

personally I'd prefer taking relative newbies to Half and Half (versus Lost Wall - it's underneath Lost Wall so what follows fits both). Let me give you that approach. Go to the Tom's Thumb trailhead temporary parking lot (signed). Hike up the new Tom's Thumb trail about 1/4 mile (the whole hike to Tom's Thumb is 2.1 miles, so you are still at the bottom of the hill). At that 1/4 mile mark you will hit a sign post with the circular sign - TT3. that's the emergency marker there. A new climber's trail heads west from that point across the major wash (just keep moving ahead and looking for orange flagging). On the other side of the wash, it heads up a low ridge near the old Tom's Thumb parking. You will continue up hill past Fort McDowell (fin like rock crags). Keep going, and about half way up the hill you will be about level with Half and Half Wall (the big slab with the horizontal crack). A climber's path heads back left at that point and if you follow it you will arrive at a two-bolt anchor on top of Half and Half. There are a couple of other two-bolt anchor set ups you will see. From the main anchor it is a 30 meter rap into the base. Set up the top ropes on the bolted anchors and have fun. There are 3 to 4 5.5 to 5.7 type of climbs there.

However, if you really want to do Lost Wall (I love that 5.7 on the east face), continue on the original climbers trail before you turn off to Half and Half. Follow orange flagging and you will eventually top out. At that point, you will be at a bend in the trail with a large boulder on your left. If you follow the path past the right of that boulder you will be on top of Lost Wall. I'd rap from two bolts into a ledge with an additional two bolt anchor and do your thing from there. it is a good 30 meters to the bottom, so you might want to do a top belay to make sure you have enough rope for the climbs.
I know this all sounds a little confusing, but if you are out there looking at the crags it makes sense. I have the new McDowell rock climbing plan/map, as well as route photos of the various climbs I've mentioned, if you want to contact me off line at smorefil@aol.com.

have fun!
Erik

great, Ian.
have fun.
i'm not that savvy on these electronic communication things, but i'm trying below to send you (and anyone else who would like it) a link to the new official Preserve Rock Climbing Plan for the McDowells. it may provide further assistance.
best,
Erik
amcaz.org/Access_Issues/Tom…

I would like to thank all of the folks who have helped secure the climbing access in the McDowell Sonoran Preserve. Over the years we have lost too many great climbing areas to development (i.e. Troon Mountain, the Boulders, Lower East Wall at Pinnacle). It is not inconceivable that we could have lost the whole area to climbing.

North Access Area McDowells

Trail Sign Installation

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

8:00 a.m. Meet at Tom’s Thumb trailhead, North Access Area - Head out in work parties to Install Trail Signs in Tom’s Thumb cirque

We will be installing the climber trail signage at pre-determined access points along main and climber trails. We will split into work parties with specific trail signs to install.

The City will provide all tools, etc. Just bring work gloves, personal items, food and water.

It would be a good idea to bring a larger pack (in which to put pre-measured bags of cement and water). A larger plastic bag to line your pack is suggested.

If you can come out and help, please contact Erik Filsinger at smorefil@aol.com.

Thanks, and see you there.
Erik Filsinger
AMC Land Advocacy Chair

Count me in Erik.

I'd love to help, but I work. Thanks guys!

I will see if I can get the time off to assist as well..
I will advertise on Facebook and on my website as well to drum up some help!
Your doing great things! We need to steal our piece of nature back from the ignorants that feel that take take take is a simple process of life... God Speed!

Thanks for doing this. I must work that day.

great to hear from you all.
let's just meet at the dirt parking lot under Morrell's Wall (the Temporary north access area for the new Tom's Thumb trail). 8:00 a.m. Wed, the 25th.
if anyone needs directions, let me know (offline too at smorefil(at)aol(dot)com).
here is the latest and greatest conceptual map from the city of the climber trails in the north McDowells.

OK, we checked out the hike to Tom's Thumb this last weekend. According to the sign at the new parking trailhead, it is 2.1 miles to the Thumb. However, once you have hit the saddle, a new sign says that you have come 1.9 miles and it is .5 miles to the Thumb. I'm no math wizard, but unless I am mistaken, that doesn't add up to 2.1. It's a pretty hike but it is WAY round-about. I did a lot of grumping when we got to the saddle, could see the Thumb, but then went AWAY from it. We did not take the T5, as we were told that that trail was better for Gardeners and would actually be farther for the Thumb. We did, however, meet some people that took that way and they thought it was fine. We considered trying it on the way down, but it was dark by the time we were coming down so I was not keen on that. Since I never did the original hike to the Thumb, I cannot comment on the distance. However, I will say this: I am pretty out of shape right now (wow, is that an understatement), and it didn't take us long at all to hoof up there. I'm curious about the "permanent" parking now.

The signs over by Sven Towers and showing the way to Hog Heavan are nicely done. Thanks to everyone for the signs and kudos to the Access Fund for helping with the cost!!

Was there a signage posting for this wed? I took off work and cant find the info anywhere? Did I miss it?

Shiloh we are meeting this wed at 0800; I live in Tempe if you would like to carpool.

Good - thats what I thought - i actually have the day off and would love to assist - maybe even climb??
If anyone is interested in carpooling - PM me and we'll arrange!

Looking forward to it!

Hi folks,
great to see and hear folks getting out there. Here is the Wed itinerary. All you need are work gloves, personal sustenance, and a pack large enough to help carry pre-sized cement and water. A large plastic bag to put the stuff in will save dust in your pack.
See you there!
Erik
---
North Access Area McDowells

Trail Sign Installation

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

8:00 a.m. Meet at Tom’s Thumb trailhead, North Access Area - Head out in work parties to Install Trail Signs in Tom’s Thumb cirque

We will be installing the climber trail signage at pre-determined access points along main and climber trails. We will split into work parties with specific trail signs to install.

The City will provide all tools, etc. Just bring work gloves, personal items, food and water.

It would be a good idea to bring a larger pack (in which to put pre-measured bags of cement and water). A larger plastic bag to line your pack is suggested.

If you can come out and help, please contact Erik Filsinger at smorefil@aol.com.

Thanks, and see you there.
Erik Filsinger
AMC Land Advocacy Chair