climbing in Worcester vs. Salt Lake

Rob- The beer is better in Woosta for sure. Cathedral is kinda like little Cottonwood but better. Is that junk pile AF still standing ?

My friends Karl & Elaine moved from Boston to SLC and lived. Kinda

Rob,

Rui is right with the ice climbing in NE, CO doesn't compare to NE in terms of quantity but I don't know about the quality since I've never climbed ice since I've been living in the bubble. Lake Willoughby has some of the best and longest ice climbs in NE. Not many places have the amount of ice and at the grades, most climbs start at NEI4+/5 and are at least 4 pitches long.

As for partners, the majority of people who want to climb hard(hard 10's, 11's and 12's) in both sport and trad, live in or around Boston. ClimberKJ is right, once you find a partner they are worth keeping because they will be just as motivated as you are.

For bouldering areas besides Lincoln Woods, Farley or Pawtuckaway there is incredible bouldering in Great Barrington, MA. Contact the Western MA Climbers Coalition about the area because from I remember the access was tenuous, at least the last time I climbed there a few years ago.

Roped climbing, there is Bolton Valley in VT. It may not be as high as Cathedral, Whitehorse or Cannon but the quality is just as good.

If you do move there, let me know. I got a lot of old climbing partners spread throughout NE area that can help you out.

Good luck!

Chris

clemay wrote: As for partners, the majority of people who want to climb hard(hard 10's, 11's and 12's) in both sport and trad, live in or around Boston.

ouch, that hurts. I never knew that fact. I thought they all moved to CO.

mobley wrote: ouch, that hurts. I never knew that fact. I thought they all moved to CO.

Yeah, they did all move to SF, SLC, or Boulder. I can't seem to find many...

And, with all deference to Mr. Knower, who climbs more stuff and at a far higher level than I do, the climbs he listed in his post are a little shorter than he made it seem. E.g., The Prow - while stellar at 5.11d, can be easily done 4 pitches. The cliff really is only 400 feet high. If long routes are your bag, I would look at Cannon. The classic harder route, as has been mentioned, is the VMC Direct Direct, although there are other, hard routes.

Good luck with the transition!

Ageed Coz- though these climbs do seem to pack a lot into short pitches. Women In love 11-,10,11c,11,12a is fantastic, one of the best routes around.
Lab Wall on Cannon is really good to , though rather more committing. The best long hard route on Cannon is Masterpiece 12 (callaghan)

Coz Teplitz wrote: E.g., The Prow - while stellar at 5.11d, can be easily done 4 pitches. The cliff really is only 400 feet high.

True Coz, but one feels like he's climbed six pitches.

mobley wrote: ouch, that hurts. I never knew that fact. I thought they all moved to CO.

Sorry Mobley, no disrespect and I know there are a few of you in the deep south of NE that climb hard ;-). If they did move to Boulder, I haven't found them yet.

Scott McMahon wrote: Absolutely true...I've made CO Natives upset with my personality, but being sarcastic and honest is just how we're brought up. If we disagree, we'll say it and nothing passes the time better than two friends making fun of each other! Truthfully I enjoy NE beers much better as well...more browns and English style ales! This makes me miss home! :o)

Haha true story. I was a Masshole for my first 18 years. I love CO so much but some people here don't take sarcasm well :)

clemay wrote: Sorry Mobley, no disrespect and I know there are a few of you in the deep south of NE that climb hard ;-). If they did move to Boulder, I haven't found them yet.

No need for apologies, I've probably said much crazier things before and besides that I can barely do a 5.9 these days...

We made it to two pages! Sounds like there are options out there, although I don't think I will ever get over being more than 20 minutes from little cottonwood canyon. Anyways, thanks again for suggestions and whatnot. We currently in limbo. time will tell.

So how long does it take for Rumney to dry out? If it rains a LOT on friday is it possible it will be climbable on saturday? I know lots of factors go into play here, but there might be generalizations to be made. hell, this is the internet.

I guess I am just curious what the fraction of weekends are throughout the year that will offer climbable conditions to someone willing to drive 4+ hours. Do you get royally shut down or can you just keep driving to find the dry spots?

Rob Duncan wrote:. So how long does it take for Rumney to dry out? If it rains a LOT on friday is it possible it will be climbable on saturday? I know lots of factors go into play here, but there might be generalizations to be made. hell, this is the internet.

Hey Rob best way to answer your question is with an example
Saturday it was an absolute down poor of rain, all day and into the early morning hours of sunday. Sunday I took a bunch of friends to Rumney and we found plenty of dry moderates to entertain ourselves for the whole day. Main Cliff and Wiamea were fairly crowded as well, as those two cliffs have overhangs and roofs that keep them fairly dry. So the answer is yes you can, some sun and a strong wind will deffinetly help out, but the most valuable variable is knowing which cliffs and routes will dry out quickest.

The Airation Buttress on Cathedral dries out way fast (except the cracks) 'cause there aren't many grips on it! Seriously it has some of the best climbing on the crag , mostly 5.10 and 5.11.

John Maguire wrote: Haha true story. I was a Masshole for my first 18 years. I love CO so much but some people here don't take sarcasm well :)

HA! I moved to Co a couple of years ago and brought my Boston bitterness, sarcasm and "humor" with me. Takes some getting used to for some folks.
Broncos suck !

Jay Knower wrote: True Coz, but one feels like he's climbed six pitches.

Or, in my case, I feel like I've fallen off of six pitches.

At least the Prow is good route to fall off. Except the first and last pitches of course. Or the second . Or....

I have climbed at rock at Rumney every month of the year, in almost every possible weather condition. Although yes, it can drip, there are places that stay dry.

If it's rained, check out the Gunks. That place dries faster than any other cliff I've ever seen. All the horizontals channel the water back into the cliff. Some places seep, but a substantial portion of the climbs will be climbable within hours of the end of a rain.

john strand wrote: HA! I moved to Co a couple of years ago and brought my Boston bitterness, sarcasm and "humor" with me. Takes some getting used to for some folks. Broncos suck !

John, I moved here 2yrs ago from Boston to the bubble and some people still haven't gotten used all the bitterness, sarcasm and our style of "humor". Don't think they ever will.