|By Mark Tarrant|
Sep 23, 2010
Check out the old bolt to his left. Those things were old 24 years ago, and two of them blew out when weighted. We put the route in ground-up, drilling by hand, and these bolts were handy but unpredictable. There was an old bolt several feet above this one (a little off the free line) that I was aiming for. I sat back on it for a rest and it held for a minute or so and then blew. I think the old bolt in the photo caught me.
There were three or four oldies in the roof that we batmanned past several times. One finally blew out when my brother was seconding. It was the last one in the roof, but his rope was still clipped to the previous, lower bolt. Just as he was unclipping from that lower bolt, the one he was hanging on came out. So he had about 4 feet of slack plus about 4 feet of roof to complete. He went for a heck of a ride down and then out. Now hanging and swinging a good ten feet below the roof, he was completely airborne and had no way up. Unable to prussik, (and I didn't want to lower him to the ground), I think I literally hand-over-handed him up to the lip (he was only 16 and a little lighter then).