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Elephantiasis
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.9 from 14
votes
Routes in Elephant Dome
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B Cubed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crater Genetics T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Diagonemesis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Elephant's Trunk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Elephantiasis T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jeff Mayhew, Chuck Lipinski, Mike Ritchey |
| Page Views: | 3,605 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Cohn on Nov 2, 2009 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! Dogs Not allowed
Details
The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon. Dogs are not allowed per land owner request.
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
READ THIS DOCUMENT AND OBEY!
concernedclimbers.com/Mendo…
Update from Jeff Mayhew 3.12.14:
Extended Access Info
Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.
You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.
Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
Access Issue: There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area.
Details
There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area. This wilderness is surrounded by state, reservation, and private land. Permission to drive on an access road through the King Anvil Ranch property is granted by the owner during the months of September through February (access closed March through August). This access road also crosses Arizona State Trust Land. The owner of the King Anvil Ranch and the Arizona Game Fish have provided a sign in station for you to register your visit. Please sign in and sign out at the station. Furthermore the Arizona land managers require that you obtain a recreation permit to drive across Arizona State Trust Land. The application for this permit ($15/year) can be found at:
land.state.az.us/programs/n…
land.state.az.us/programs/n…
Description
Elephantiasis is a committing back country route. You will encounter loose rock, slippery grass at belay-stations, and run out climbing so make sure you are climbing strong at the grade before getting on this route. That said, this climb provides a great day of adventure.
The description in Bob Kerry's guide will get you up the route, but it was slightly off in one or two spots. I will just add information to supplement his description and topo.
climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…
1. Follow Kerry's description. There is s single bolt on top of the boulder on the right. I backed this up with a small cam. 5.8+
2. Follow Kerry's description. The finger mentioned is pretty obvious. You must build an anchor at the end of this pitch. 5.9-
3. Follow Kerry's description. His topo is a little off. It appears that you start trending left immediately after the third bolt. In fact you should continue straight up for a while. When you are about 2/3 of the way up the pitch, the triangular rock near the belay station will become obvious. Climb up to the rock using the most obvious path. There is a single bolt at the station that can be backed up. 5.10-
4. Follow Kerry's description. The crux of the route is the traverse at the beginning of the pitch. After clipping the bolt and the piton, you can place one more micro before committing. After turning the corner, there is a nice stance. Place a piece as high as possible because there is another committing more turning back around the corner and up to the bolt. It is important to have a lot of slings for this pitch to reduce drag. There are two bolts at the belay station. 5.10
5. Follow Kerry's description. This pitch has some really fun climbing on edges near the cruxes. The rock is very good quality too. There are two bolts at the belay station. 5.10
6. Follow a couple of bolts over steep face until the angle eases off. Go up and slightly right over chicken heads. Eventually you will see a bolt and a slung chicken-head. You can walk to the top from here. 5.9+
Descent: See the description for B Cubed.
The description in Bob Kerry's guide will get you up the route, but it was slightly off in one or two spots. I will just add information to supplement his description and topo.
climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…
1. Follow Kerry's description. There is s single bolt on top of the boulder on the right. I backed this up with a small cam. 5.8+
2. Follow Kerry's description. The finger mentioned is pretty obvious. You must build an anchor at the end of this pitch. 5.9-
3. Follow Kerry's description. His topo is a little off. It appears that you start trending left immediately after the third bolt. In fact you should continue straight up for a while. When you are about 2/3 of the way up the pitch, the triangular rock near the belay station will become obvious. Climb up to the rock using the most obvious path. There is a single bolt at the station that can be backed up. 5.10-
4. Follow Kerry's description. The crux of the route is the traverse at the beginning of the pitch. After clipping the bolt and the piton, you can place one more micro before committing. After turning the corner, there is a nice stance. Place a piece as high as possible because there is another committing more turning back around the corner and up to the bolt. It is important to have a lot of slings for this pitch to reduce drag. There are two bolts at the belay station. 5.10
5. Follow Kerry's description. This pitch has some really fun climbing on edges near the cruxes. The rock is very good quality too. There are two bolts at the belay station. 5.10
6. Follow a couple of bolts over steep face until the angle eases off. Go up and slightly right over chicken heads. Eventually you will see a bolt and a slung chicken-head. You can walk to the top from here. 5.9+
Descent: See the description for B Cubed.
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