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Wheelin' N' Dealin'
5.13c YDS 8a+ French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British R
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Matt McCormick Oct 17, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 10,246 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | Matt McCormick on Oct 18, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
This route is the result of three and a half months of work and probably close to 20 big falls from the crux including a "cartwheel whipper" which is where the name comes from.
Pull the initial roof with some burly campus-like moves to a nice rest out right. Step back left into the seam and place some small gear before punching it to the horizontal. Rest here and get psyched for the crux above! Climb to a strenuous stance where you can place an improbable offset nut and green-yellow hybrid alien in the same pod. After this punch through the extremely insecure crux above using the tiniest feet imaginable to reach a jug and place 2 tiny rps. Follow easier but run-out ground to the 2 bolt anchor above.
A video of the process is here: http://www.vimeo.com/7137626
Pull the initial roof with some burly campus-like moves to a nice rest out right. Step back left into the seam and place some small gear before punching it to the horizontal. Rest here and get psyched for the crux above! Climb to a strenuous stance where you can place an improbable offset nut and green-yellow hybrid alien in the same pod. After this punch through the extremely insecure crux above using the tiniest feet imaginable to reach a jug and place 2 tiny rps. Follow easier but run-out ground to the 2 bolt anchor above.
A video of the process is here: http://www.vimeo.com/7137626
Location
This route starts 15' right of the start for Drop, Fly, or Die below the tiered overhangs and climbs the beautiful seam bisecting the Normal Route.
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