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Lady Wilson's Cleavage
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3 from 12
votes
Routes in Horseshoe Wall
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DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dogma T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gwondonna Land Boogie T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Head of State T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Just Missed the Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lady Wilson's Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pink Tornado Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sentimental Journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Willy's Wild Wide T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | 1977, Joanne & George Urioste, Joe Herbst |
| Page Views: | 8,734 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Feb 14, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is a long, serious route, following mostly wide cracks. It is not actually on the Horseshoe Wall, but that's close enough for now...
Route finding is easy on this route, once you find your way to the base. Check the accompanying photo from Red Rock Odyssey to find the line for the approach.
From the rope-up spot, climb six pitches up the obvious crack. Then, go right in the gully and chimney system to the top. The most obvious descent is through First Creek.
There is an entire chapter about this route in Red Rock Odyssey
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