Crag Dweller wrote: I use a different 'biner on each end of my draws to make sure I don't use the bolt-end of my draws to clip the rope. On my sport draws, the rope-end is anodized and the bolt ends are not. With my trad draws, I use wire-gates for the rope end and solid gates to clip into pro.
I also have a similar system so I can keep them all organized. What hadn't occurred to me was that using the same set of draws for trad and sport could result in a problem when you clip that draw into a cam sling and the biner is all chewed up.
I have 11 sport draws and 10 extendable alpine draws. For sport I just carry the fixed draws and for trad climbing I carry the extendable draws and add a few extra sport draws if I feel I need more. My trad draws are made with a shoulder length runner with a wiregate biner on the gear end and a bent gate biner on the rope end
I rack between 6 and 13 tripled double length dyneema slings on one light and one smallish biners, the small one goes to harness. Then when I clip to gear its always the same biner to metal if its a nut cable, bolt or pin. I dont use spectra since you cant tie a friction knot with it.
On alpine routes I am going to start trying to clip the slings to my harness with 1 biner, connecting two bights, so i can carry a little less weight.
I always clip a runner to gear, but I dont usually extend them. Every once in a while I take a triple length sling or two up a very circuitous route.
Each cam I carry gets its own biner, reclipping cams to my harness is a pain, and it really sucks to do that in a crux gear stance.
I try to rack everything the same every time, so when i'm in hurry its easy to do everything fast.
rafael wrote:I rack between 6 and 13 tripled double length dyneema slings on one light and one smallish biners, the small one goes to harness. Then when I clip to gear its always the same biner to metal if its a nut cable, bolt or pin. I dont use spectra since you cant tie a friction knot with it. On alpine routes I am going to start trying to clip the slings to my harness with 1 biner, connecting two bights, so i can carry a little less weight. I always clip a runner to gear, but I dont usually extend them. Every once in a while I take a triple length sling or two up a very circuitous route. Each cam I carry gets its own biner, reclipping cams to my harness is a pain, and it really sucks to do that in a crux gear stance. I try to rack everything the same every time, so when i'm in hurry its easy to do everything fast.
You realize you responded to a question asked over seven years ago? But Justin probably still appreciates your help. :)
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