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Chip Off the Old Block
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 57
votes
Routes in Scheelite Wall
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Catholic Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chip Off the Old Block T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Core Blimey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Offwidth His Head T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reproach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Tai Devore, Jeremy Freeman, Greg Smith, Adam Winters - March 2009 |
| Page Views: | 7,271 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | AWinters on Mar 27, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Ascends a huge right-facing corner on the 'Scheelite Wall' in the first 3 pitches, then continues up obvious crack systems thru ledges and varied entertaining terrain. Most of the climbing is 5.6/7ish, with one sequence of 5.10a, which could most likely be bypassed by a couple wider cracks and/or some face climbing if need-be.
Pitches 1 - 3: Climb a wide, flaring crack/groove in the large corner (mostly 5.6/7) to a tricky bulge and a short squeeze section just before reaching the top of the pillar on a nice ledge (5.9). Bolt anchors.
Pitch 4: Climb straight up, left of the tree thru the crack systems on the slab to a short hand-crack after a bush, then up the short slab to the bolt anchor on a ledge (5.7).
Pitch 5: Scramble/walk up and right to the base of the next headwall. Climb the short hand crack to the crescent finger crack just right of the offwidth up to the ledge (crux-5.10a).
Pitch 6: Scramble down and left to the base of the obvious large crack system with a short gang plank at the base. Climb up, over or between large hollow flakes and straight up the crack/groove to the chimney with a bolt. Squeeze your way up and thru as the angle eases back. Find a crack on the left wall that leads up and out to a large ledge (5.8+). Build an anchor somewhere to the left or scramble over to the right side of the large crack to the rappel anchor next to the right-hand slab.
Descent: Rappel the route
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