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Standard Route
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2.5 from 10 votes
Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Bill Forrest |
Page Views: | 2,780 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Stuart Ritchie on Mar 27, 2009 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
This is an "old-school" serious route. The first pitch climbs 25-30 feet of overhanging, unprotected rock to the first gear placement, and ends in a saddle about 40 feet higher at an old 2-bolt belay. The second pitch climbs an arete similar to that on the Razors' Edge for about 60 feet to a large block. From here, one can either move right into a loose gully and to the top, 40 feet 5.6, or swing left out onto a headwall and climb poorly protected 5.8 face to the top. A fixed rap anchor is found on the West side of the summit. One double/rope rappel gets you back down.
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