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Roadside Fling Tower
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Things We Do For Love, The 

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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1+ PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1+ [details]
FA: Sam Lightner Jr.
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 187
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Oct 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

I'm not sure this deserves its own "route" status.

First, the appraoch. Do not do this in winter when the road is possibly icy.

From the pullout to the east of the tower, there are two approaches. The common, direct approach, is to walk north, then turn west near your hood. I used this approach, but found a shorter way by going back up the road to the west, then turning north after about 20 feet. I saved 8 or 10 steps.

I did the chimney to the left of the original route. From just left of the base of that route, do a 5.2+ move onto the slab and then move left to the obvious chimney. Climb it to the ledge. Forty feet. Near the top you go out a bulge with a hand crack... you can get gear in here (hand size, obviously). The chimney is 5.8ish. Try not to fall in the lower part... it will leave a mark.

From the ledge, or the notch as it is, you can traverse to the last 40 feet of aid on the original route. As Brandewie says, use a "standard desert rack". After only 20 years here, I'm not sure what that means, but in this case it would be .75 thru 5 friends, one of each, and some spare biners for the bolts. You might want some long slings and a tie-off for the second bolt(an ALMOST banged in angle).

At the summit anchors, one of the banged-in angles wobbled a little when I tapped. I thus replaced it and, as usual, replaced the tat with brown chain (mmmmm, yummy). The first ascentionists are welcome to the angle , the tat, and the locking biner if they like anytime they come to moab.

The anchor on the intermediate place-ledge is in a funky place for belaying a second pitch, but you can build one out of 1 inch and 3/4 inch pieces.

Location 

East face of the impressive Roadside Fling Tower.

Protection 

Standard desert rack, I'm told.


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