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Leading Sculptures Crack

Id# 106559854,  Dimensions: 604 x 453 

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By reaganchung
Oct 2, 2009

Tipped out?

By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Oct 5, 2009

Prolly pretty close. Stoney is a sketchy area to try and lead. I took a fall on my second time up it on a nut towards the top and it cracked the rock and popped out and the next cam slid about 2 inches.

By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
Nov 15, 2009

Why not take a chisel to the route? It might be quicker... Just kidding. But not really.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 15, 2009

Man that's ballsy. I was on the S-Crack once and to demo how Hexentrics worked leaned back on a textbook placed number 10 - it blew out along with two dinner plate size chunks of rock, landed right back in the dirt, never again.

By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Mar 17, 2010

Most of the routes were formed by chisels (Pitons). Same with Yosemite. Obviously Rob didn't read guideline #1 don't be a jerk.

By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
Mar 17, 2010

There was a time when practicing aid and trad techniques at Stoney may have made sense. However I believe that time has passed. One of the main reasons cams and stoppers were invented was to minimize the impact on the rock.

Stoney deserves respect. Don't let the graffiti and trash fool you into thinking it's just some crappy training crag in the valley. We are lucky to have so many awesome problems so close to home.

I'm perfectly okay with being called a jerk if it helps keep Stoney from changing any more quickly than is already certain to happen due to its fragile nature. If you want to brag about taking falls and breaking holds, go ahead. I'll be over at boulder one trying to climb to the top of three pigs without using the pin scars.

By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jun 30, 2011

Trad and aid are still alive at Stoney. The aid route on the Jesus Wall is freshly rebolted. And how are you suposed to set up most of the routes at Stoney? With Trad gear! I'm not bragging about breaking holds. When I fell I popped a little micro nut and it made the crack a milimeter wider, not a big deal, I'm not proud of it, but I don't regret it. And you're right cams and nuts do minimize the impact on the rock, if you didnt see this picture, you would have had no idea I did this. So have fun on a little 15 ft bolder problem while I'm 3,000 ft up on El Cap with my trad and aid gear.

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Leading Sculptures Crack

Submitted By: Tristan B on Oct 1, 2009
On this route:
Sculpture's Crack (5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b )
Photo Of: Tristan B