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Rhoads on lead. Perfect fall day!
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 15, 2009
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Sep 30, 2009
You call that a lead? Where I come from, we call that a solo.
By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Sep 30, 2009
Why bother with the added weight of a rope and harness when you're not going to use them.
By Tradoholic
Oct 1, 2009
Because it's harder that way.
By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Oct 1, 2009
Harder then soloing, or harder then top-roping? The inherent nature of protection is to protect the climber. Otherwise it's only there to weigh you down. Granted a route with little to no protection will be more difficult to climb without the security of a TR, but a climb sans gear qualifies as a solo.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 2, 2009
Isaac, I think you just have to look at it differently. There is gear on this climb. The other pic of Nick shows at least 3 pieces of gear. The lake often reminds me of Gritstone. Gritstone routes have minimal protection and often only have 1 or 2 pieces of gear. But they get led with gear. Why aren't all those guys just soloing the grit...I think for 2 reasons. 1 - it's an ethic thing 2 - like Nick said, it makes it harder. Just soloing, you have nothing extra on, you don't have to stop to place gear, or clip.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 2, 2009
Its seems that we differ slightly Jason. Your definition of style and ethics was just different from mine. Your definition of style is what I mean when I talk about ethics. I suppose I had the two mixed up a bit. So I will change that saying "Nick likes to lead things because it's his style (not ethic)" Same goes for Gritstone. They lead them because that is the style they prefer.

Also, I just didnt elaborate as much as you did. What I meant when I said "it makes it harder" I meant physically. If you want me to go more into it, I'll send you an email, but I agree with you on what you stated there, so the email would be pointless. I do have to disagree with the weight of the rope and gear, yes it makes a difference. Do swimmers (gay as it is) shave their legs because it makes no difference....nope. Actually, it "shaves" time off. No gear/rope = less weight = less to carry up the climb. Also, no rope/gear means you have less to think about. The rope isn't getting in the way of your feet, causing you to waste energy kicking it out of the way. Less is less. Can't argue that. But I do agree that the piece of mind that comes from a piece of gear, being bomber or complete shit, is a major help.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 2, 2009
Right on. Let's not.

The swimmer thing, that's what I meant, friction and such. Not weight ;)

Pull hard!
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 2, 2009
Rhoads you crazy SOB! Good work!
By Tradoholic
Oct 2, 2009
Classic gentleman. By saying "because it's harder that way" I could also say "for the training weight."

Soloing is more difficult in the sense that it is more mentally committing but I would say that trailing a rope and even a few pieces of gear does make it more physically demanding, even if it is just ever so slightly.

I don't solo because it is not my style and I enjoy the aspect of figuring out the gear not just figuring out the moves. I think passing up perfectly good protection is a bit silly but that's just me and I would never judge someone else negatively for their soloing.

This climb is NOT a solo, simply because there is gear on it that I did use, no matter how spaced out it was or how grim the placements might seem.

Thank you for the kudos Huston!
By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Oct 2, 2009
I've wondered how much I'm fooling myself when there's a significant runnout above negligable gear. Am I leading, or simply soloing while placing gear as mental succor. At some point your just soloing with a rope. Not trying to take anything away from the climb, I've always thought this to be an exceptional line, but it's something I've thought about in my free time.
By Tradoholic
Oct 2, 2009
Yes, there is something to be said for "psychological pro"! Something is better than nothing I would say.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 2, 2009
One could climb off route onto Brinton's, place gear with long slings added, climb back down, and pull the lower crux of Chiro with atleast some sort of pro to keep from grounding. Just a thought...
By Paul Jones
From: Madison, WI
Oct 15, 2009
You a badass mofo, Rhoads. Also, it turned out to be a perfect Autumn day. Never say "Fall".
By Tradoholic
Oct 15, 2009
Good point Paul, a perfect "autumn" day it sure was! Thanks!
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Rhoads on lead. Perfect fall day!

Submitted By: Tradoholic on Sep 30, 2009
On this route:
Chiaroscuro (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a )
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