2 months to Bishop...best way to train?

I've been training pretty steadily all year, but now I want to focus to get the most results bouldering in Bishop in 2 months. A couple of other key facts: 1) I'm nearly 40, 2) I have a 45 degree wall at home which includes a HIT system, 3) I have access to a gym and some not-so-great outdoor bouldering... Any advice on how to get the most out of the next two months?

Two Questions:

Do you want to be in peak condition for Bishop? (You have 2 months to train.)

Or....

Do you want to get strong while in Bishop? (You have 2 months in Bishop.)

crimpnasty makes an interesting point. While you mull that over my only advice would be to lose a little spread if that's an issue (I'm 45 so I've dealt with that personally). The other thing I'd do is boulder outside a bit more to develop some callous and better crimp strength, which can be hard to do in the gym. While some of the problems at the Milks have a nice patina on the edges and jugs, others are pretty grainy on a level similar to Joshua Tree. If you show up with some good callous, you'll probably have less down time your first couple weeks or so.

Also, since you're going for two months in December and January, think up a plan B if the weather is cold. It's not uncommon for the Milks to be snowed in, even to the point where you can't drive up the road. A buddy and I got stuck out there briefly, even though we were in a jeep with 4WD. Another jeep with snow tires and chains just happened to cruise by and gave us a hand. You may end up doing a fair bit of skiing so you better train for that too.

Good question! I have 2 months to train and want to be in peak bouldering condition in Bishop.

Ok cool.... Since you are going to be there Dec-Jan, then you will most likely be climbing at the happies/sads. You will have plenty of time to get in decent shape and there more than a few ways you could go about it... However, it all depends on your current ability, goals, time constraints, and access to good rock.

So a few more questions are in order:

-What are your goals... Specific problems?
-What is your curent bouldering/redpoint level?
-How long will you be there?

If you are close to the big 4-0, the best thing you can do is train but don't over do it. The last thing you want is to be on the brink of injury from over training. Stretch and warm up. Work your endurance at least as much as power, take plenty of rest rest days too. Right before your trip, take a week or so off so that you are fresh and recovered. When you get to Bishop start slow and then send your tick list.

Sorry, to clear up the confusion further - I am traveling to Bishop in 2 months. I will be there over Thanksgiving for 1 full week.

Goal: to send a few V5s or even a V6 or two. Also to do some classics in the V3-V4 range. My current level is about V5/5.12, but not onsight. Onsight about V4/5.11+.

I'm overall in good shape and have been training all year (with rests and peaks, etc) but would really like to get the most out of this trip.

Everytime I go to Bishop I get spanked hard. Everyone seems to get spanked their first visit to the milks. Buttermilks Bouldering is a lot different than anything. It's hard to explain. Ease into it and let your tips adjust.It took me 3 visits over 2 years to get Iron Man. Same with problems like birthday direct and skyline. There are V2's I have yet to send there. There are V5's I couldn't even get off the ground on.

I always have fun though. I'd say I climb right around your level. Last time I was there I was climbing a lot stronger. I flashed just about every V5 at the druids, and did some 5/6's at happies, yet I was still projecting V4's at the milks.

Everytime I train and prep for Bishop I come in hot and psyched and seem to just get shut down. The last time I went i had a much more lax attitude and I climbed really well.

If you onsight V4, then you should reach your goals fairly easily at the Happies/Sads... But G4 is correct when saying that you may be in for a rude awakening at the milks (technical). Alright, now down to the nitty gritty... Considering all the resources you have this is what I would do:

1) 3 weeks of bouldering for volume in the gym & outdoors to brush up on your bouldering techniques. (Heelhooks, toehooks, etc.)

2) 2 weeks of your HIT strips, Weighted Pulls, and Core exercises

3) 1 week of rest

4) 2 weeks of working harder boulder problems ending with 3-4 days of full rest before the trip.

While you are in Bishop I would climb 2 days on and one day off. Climbing the classic easier problems on the second day. Good luck with your trip and have fun.

Great advice. Thanks!

P-
I'd have to agree w/ Fat Dad, if you're only going to be there a week and are probably going to be climbing a lot since you've got limited time... climb outside as much as you can to build up some skin. The happys aren't quite as rough but any of the bouldering around bishop will make pretty short work of your skin, especially if you're trying problems at your limit.
I'll also 2nd G4's comment. The buttermilks are fantastic but take some getting used to. In actuality, climbing outside more might help this also. I found that the Buttermilks, and this is a gross generalization, required a lot of body tension while using crappy little feet. So you're hanging on hard (hence the no skin after a couple of days) and you've got to make use of some pretty small holds for your tootsies. Two factors that seem best worked on outside on real rock. Though the gym would be a great place to get the shoulders up to speed for some good old fashioned thuggery.
Good luck and I hope that the weather is great over thanksgiving,
BA

Thanks, BA. Excellent point about getting pads ready for real rock and focusing on body tension. Other than the obvious steep bouldering, any recommendations for body tension exercises in the regular gym?

My two favorite drills for body tension are "Put Backs" & "Touches".

"Put Backs" - Purposely cut your feet on steep terrain and put them back on the footholds. You do it for time, 3 rounds 30s on/ 30s off, or reps. You can switch it up by aiming for alternating twisting feet.

"Touches" - Walk my feet around steep/dead horiztional terrain with static hands.

Put Backs will be pretty helpful for Iron Man Traverse. You can drag a heel on that rail only so far, then it's just thin edges on a overhanging wall with really small slick feet that require most of your core strength to use. I can't tell you the number of power climbers I've seen flail on a such a relatively moderate problem because they lacked footwork and core strength.

Don't underestimate the value of dips and pushups.

There's nothing like training for a big bouldering trip only to fall off of a ton of problems because you can't mantle.

:)

I second the advice on the get your pads in shape. And the don't overtrain advice. Ironman traverse is wonderful.