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The Bridge of Khazad-Dûm
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 15
votes
Routes in The Mordor Wall
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Armaggedon T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Azog T A3+ |
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Bongo Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 |
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Bridge of Khazad-Dûm, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cecile T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Difficulties be Damned T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Division of Labour T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Elevator Dance T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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French Connection T A3 |
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Grand Finale T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C2 R |
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Highway 61 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Life the Universe and Everything T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Lights in the Forest T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mines of Moria T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C2 |
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Mordor Wall, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2+ |
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Pendulum Route T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Reckoning, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown A4 |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Brian Delaney, Joe Lentini, FA of the Bridge (July 1976) Jim Dunn, Bryan Becker, First continuous ascent (Sep 1976) |
| Page Views: | 16,950 total · 95/month |
| Shared By: | David Aguasca! on Sep 4, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This route combines some of the best pitches of climbing on the Mordor Wall, taking two from The Pendulum Route and one (and a half) from Lights in the Forest, the last being the imposing Bridge of Khazad-Dûm, a huge jamming and undercling roof.
Pitch 1: 5.8, 90'. The original start was shared with the Pendulum Route, which involved chimneying between the rock and a large tree at the base of the wall. The tree has fallen, but there is now a bolt ladder. Continue up the steep corner hand crack and mantel onto the tree ledge.
Pitch 2: 5.10b, 40'. This is the second pitch of the Pendulum route. It follows a small overlap that you must undercling to the right. Small gear useful on this pitch.
Pitch 3: 5.9, 140'. This long pitch has some good exposure. It also needs a little more traffic...it is very dirty. Start by moving left into the cracks in the corner, laybacking and stemming up to a bolt. Clip it long and move to the right for some more laybacking up to the huge nose of rock. Chimney up this to a good stance.
Pitch 4: 5.8, 70'. From the stance, continue up through some trees to a nice hand crack in the back of a corner, to a small roof. Traverse left under the roof with more ease, but with much less protection, to the belay ledge below The Bridge.
Pitch 5: 5.11d, 70'. If you don't know where to go from here, you may as well pack up and go home. Jam and undercling, sometimes awkwardly, always strenously, out the huge, burly roof hanging over your head. It is STELLAR climbing. Did I mention it is burly? Pull around the lip and layback more easily up to a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 6: 5.10c, 100'. Scramble up and left to MOE, an obvious flake and thin face, past a bolt, into the trees.
Pitch 1: 5.8, 90'. The original start was shared with the Pendulum Route, which involved chimneying between the rock and a large tree at the base of the wall. The tree has fallen, but there is now a bolt ladder. Continue up the steep corner hand crack and mantel onto the tree ledge.
Pitch 2: 5.10b, 40'. This is the second pitch of the Pendulum route. It follows a small overlap that you must undercling to the right. Small gear useful on this pitch.
Pitch 3: 5.9, 140'. This long pitch has some good exposure. It also needs a little more traffic...it is very dirty. Start by moving left into the cracks in the corner, laybacking and stemming up to a bolt. Clip it long and move to the right for some more laybacking up to the huge nose of rock. Chimney up this to a good stance.
Pitch 4: 5.8, 70'. From the stance, continue up through some trees to a nice hand crack in the back of a corner, to a small roof. Traverse left under the roof with more ease, but with much less protection, to the belay ledge below The Bridge.
Pitch 5: 5.11d, 70'. If you don't know where to go from here, you may as well pack up and go home. Jam and undercling, sometimes awkwardly, always strenously, out the huge, burly roof hanging over your head. It is STELLAR climbing. Did I mention it is burly? Pull around the lip and layback more easily up to a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 6: 5.10c, 100'. Scramble up and left to MOE, an obvious flake and thin face, past a bolt, into the trees.
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