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7.) Done! Tie in and "red point" that route!
2.) Locate a small rock that will open the bolt-end carabiner gate pretty wide. The goal is to open the gate way wide, leave a bit of the carabiner's nose exposed and pinch off the gap where the gate meets the carabiner's spine.  <br /> <br />Also, note the bolt carabiner is facing left. Because of the orientation of bolt hangers, this is the optimal orientation.
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1.) The Dungeon Stick. Look for it near the base of the main wall or perhaps around the corner near <a href='/v/crimp-chimp/105986944'>Crimp Chimp</a>.
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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 20, 2009

Frequent climbers of The Dungeon are likely familiar with The Dungeon Stick--the resident, natural clip stick. It's standard for climbers to stick clip the second bolt there because the ground level has risen after increasing floods as a result of soil instability from the Cerro Grande Fire of May 2000. This rise in the ground level left the first bolts of routes pretty low to the ground but the second bolts are way up there. Often routes have a crux before the second bolt.

These photo instructions show how to use The Dungeon Stick for safe climbing at the Main Wall.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 23, 2009

You don't want to deck

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1.) The Dungeon Stick. Look for it near the base of the main wall or perhaps around the corner near Crimp Chimp.

Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Sep 20, 2009
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