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Thinking of Leaving the Bubble...

Original Post
Greg Mionske · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 230

So I don't know why I would ever leave a mecca, but I'm graduating this coming Spring and have decided that before I collect anymore Patagonia layers, I should get out here. I'm thinking the Northwest, specifically Portland, OR. I want trad, ice, and mixed routes reasonably close. Is Portland a good place for climbers or should I be thinking about other cities like Seattle, Etc...

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

I don't think there is a lot of reliable ice near Portland. Maybe consider Bozeman MT, Montrose or Grand Junction CO, Salt Lake, or somewhere in the Northeast.

Andrew Caraballo · · Milwaukie, OR · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 530

I'd say Seattle would be the city for trad, ice climbing and mountaineering. You have Index and Exit 38 for big wall, the Cascades offer a large variety of Apline climbing like the Enchantments and Rainier, Gold Bar and Leavenworth for trad, sport and bouldering and Vantage for winter desert climbing. All within 1-3 hours from the metro area. I lived in the area for 8 years but still cant compare to what CO has to offer :P

Ian G. · · PDX, OR · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 280

If you come to PDX, make sure you have a job first. Unemployment is 13% here right now. You pretty much have to be able to walk on water in order to get a job...

There is good climbing in Oregon...but, compared to Colorado...meh...

BenCooper · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 585

2nd on the advice about Portland. A decent job is becoming a holy grail of sorts. And there is far better alpine climbing closer to Seattle (think North Cascades, Stuart Range, etc.). Also, Leavenworth and Index are fairly close to Seattle. In terms of trad, I think that the stuff around PDX is pretty good, but really doesn't compare to what the above have to offer.

In other words...if you like having a 5 month climbing season, look at Seattle. But I'd be looking more at SLC or Colorado. Best of luck.

Reed Fee · · White Salmon WA · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 155

Well you wont stop collecting Patagucci layers in either city. I used to live in Hood River and hour east of Portland. If you want to climb on granite more often than not move to Seattle. The NW is not nearly cold enough to have reliable ice except the volcanoes and N. Cascades. If you want to climb on somewhat dirty basalt crags in the woods move to Portland. If your a serious bolt clipper Smith rocks is 2 plus hours South of PDX. Lots of other outdoor activities around either city. Very long not cold but wet winters with minimum sunshine in both cites. I like Utah winters much better even though it's way colder the sun comes out wayyyyy more.

clemay · · Fort Collins · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 0

I second Mike's places of SLC, Bozeman, MT or the Northeast. I'm more partial to the NE since I grew up and learned to climb there. One thing about the NE is of you get a summer like they had this year, you won't be climbing much rock but the ice and mixed will be great if it gets cold enough.

Bozeman seems to get more consistent cold for ice/mixed/alpine but if you need a good alpine fix, you're about a 12-14hr(I think) drive to Banff.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

The PNW is great for mountaineering, but it's pretty soggy alot of the time if you're interested in pure rock. As others have already said, not a lot of ice other than the alpine variety.

BTW, it's good to expand one's horizons from time to time. You may also want to consider the cultural scene of wherever you're going too. If you're used to a liberal town like Boulder, anywhere in Utah is going to be a big change in terms of the social and political landscape.

Reed Fee · · White Salmon WA · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 155

You aint kidding FatDad. Utah is so PG and conservative most of the time it drives me crazy but it's nicely located. Awssome climbing in every direction you can drive weather its two hours or a day. SLC has a bitchin public radio station. KRCL!!!! And then theres the nice snow and the liqour stores are open till 10 pm.

Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510

Don't move to Portland, trust me. It's a cool town to visit, but unless you're hipster nihilist you'll get sick of it pretty quick. And the climbing is mediocre. If you move to Oregon, it has to be Bend, although good luck finding ice, or alpine (eagle range is like 6-8 hours?). Somewhere east/south east of Seattle will be your best bet in the NW (or Bellingham...actually), unless you can swing a Canadian visa and head to Vancouver.

Don't get me wrong, if you're just looking to check a place out for a year or less, Portland could be fun, but don't move there for the climbing, and prepare to feel soggy and damp 24 hours a day, 365.

Galibier_Numero_Un · · Erie, CO · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 0

On a related topic, is it just me, or does Boulder (climbing spots) seem less crowded these days? Have the effects of the economy finally chased a lot of climbers out of the Front Range?

It used to be, if you went to Eldo on a Friday after work, all of the classics on the West face of the Wind Tower were occupied, and someone was on the Bastile, Werk Sup, and Outer Space.

These daze, hardly anyone is there, which suits me fine ;-)

The popular sport areas in Boulder Canyon don't seem to be sucking up the extra business (unless I'm missing the new, secret spot).

What say ye?

Cheers,
Thom

Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510
Galibier_Numero_Un wrote:On a related topic, is it just me, or does Boulder (climbing spots) seem less crowded these days? Have the effects of the economy finally chased a lot of climbers out of the Front Range?
It really doesn't seem to be as much of a zoo these days, who knows the exact reasoning. Maybe all the cool kids got antsy and left, not a problem as far as I'm concerned.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

galibier, it's interesting that you ask that question. i ran into some people this weekend that asked if we had noticed a huge increase in climbers due to new guidebooks. hard to tell either way, guess it depends on where you are climbing.

if you are a pathetic 9-5 working stiff with a real job (like moi), boulder will be hard to beat. i agree w/ B-Nuts that the climbing on the front range is pretty mediocre, but there is a lot of it. the key is to climb around town after work and travel on the weekends. the volume of climbing is good because it will take you a while to climb everything out.

portland is cool to visit, but i wouldn't want to live there. the weather blows about 8 months out of the year, and there isn't THAT much climbing nearby, AND the climbing is more mediocre than boulder.

SLC would compete with boulder, but the "demographics" make it a buzzkill.

another serious option would be charlotte SC or other mid-atlantic cities. a LOT of good climbing, although the weather isn't as predictable.

my .02

COEveryman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 300

Mionske Grow A Brain!!!!!!

Hey, it's Jordan. I just left Boulder, I am in striking distance of the New River Gorge (totally amazing by the way, kind of like a mix of Indian Creek and Arkansas with WAY more bullet rock)--and I am miserable.

The community in Boulder, for all of its faults, is amazing. If you, like me, were forced to leave, thats one thing. But to have the option to stay and then move just because . . . ?????

Anyways bro, just trying to give you some shit. I understand the need to get out and experience the world. Go sow your wild oats. Just be back in Colorado in 3 years when I get back!!!!!

krispyyo · · Duluth, MN · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 65

Eldo, Lumpy, RMNP mediocre and shitty? What? That's a strange point of view...

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
Beached Nuts wrote:I'd rather live near a really good crag than near a bunch of shitty ones.
John, what a perfect way to sum up the Front Range.

EVS wrote:If you move to Oregon, it has to be Bend, although good luck finding ice, or alpine
FWIW, Steve House lives in Bend (although 4+ months of the year he's usually somewhere in Asia). Not sure where he "trains", but I see him sport climbing at Smith several times/week. He's probably at a point where he doesn't need to climb alpine stuff on a regular basis; he can just whip it out once or twice a year for a big expedition.
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Boulder suck, compared to say...
Uh... Hmmm... still thinking.

Well, what can I say? I traveled the country and then settled in here.
Yosemite has better long routes, Zion has better long routes, and to some degree, I really like Red ROcks (Vegas) which has a lot of really long routes, and potential for so so so much more... when it's not too hot out.
I like cool weather in Indian creek a lot too, though after a week, I'm ready to head on home.

I enjoy the Seneca/New River combo when the weather was right in the fall, and when you'd get a dry window in the spring, whch was 1/2 of all weekends. In the winter you can head a little south to Twall/ Buzzard/Obed/Sunset, and if desperate, Sa(n)drock. I'm still trying to think of what that has over the Eldo/Bocan/SPlatte/RMNP/Flatirons/CCC/Lumpy combo unless you really like driving or rednecks...

Red Rive Gorge has some of the nation's finest sport climbing, and is within a weekend-shot of all of the above.

The Tahoe/Trukee basin area also has some great cragging and alpine walls but they're a drive to get to since you'd be hard pressed to get a real job just there.

SLC sure has some nice rock, and some great job opportunities too... and it's my understanding that while the city is pretty Mormon, that the 'other' minority is large enough to establish its own culture and social network. I'm sure it would be a fine alternative.

So yeah, there are a lot of other places I can imagine living with great climbing... what is your carreer and what is your potitical/social ambition and what are your other interests?

You can escape much of the social atmosphere of Boulder by moving 20 minutes North, South, or East, even within the county.

Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510
Monomaniac wrote: John, what a perfect way to sum up the Front Range. FWIW, Steve House lives in Bend (although 4+ months of the year he's usually somewhere in Asia). Not sure where he "trains", but I see him sport climbing at Smith several times/week. He's probably at a point where he doesn't need to climb alpine stuff on a regular basis; he can just whip it out once or twice a year for a big expedition.
Well yeah, if you have the funds and time to live in one absolutely spectacular spot, deal with limited variety at home, and just jetset about the world a few months out of the year, of course that's the way to go. More power to him, Steve's the shit, but I'm young, poor, and have to work 40+ hours a week just to pay rent and eat, so being able to literally walk to "mediocre" climbing from my house and drive less than 2 hours to IMO world class rock is kinda hard to beat.
David Aguasca! · · New York · Joined May 2008 · Points: 550

NEW HAMPSHIRE:

Trad: Check.

Ice: Check.

Alpine: Check.

Jon Lauters · · Boulder, Co · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 710

Does this mean some Boulder real estate/rental property will be opening up? :)

tom selleck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 270

holy sh#% you people are spoiled

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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