Worst Climb Ever?

Not to be riffing off another bros topic, BUT! So climbing is magical, all climbing is magical, all my friends who climb are magical, everything that is climbing is magical.

Except that one fu*king climb! You know the one, it mocks you from 5 States away while you slave away at work. You might even have this climb in your backyard, yet it mocks you still.

For me, in Yosemite. The "Bachar Cracker" can ABSOLUTELY blow me!!!!!!!.... Yeah it's a boulder problem, but it's a 40' boulder problem with skanky pads all over for protection. No matter how many times I've been to the Valley, I can't do this thing. It hangs over me like a virus with no cure.

I can't wait for another rematch tho.

Pee Wee's First Bolt, again in the Splatte, the most beautiful(and scary) piece of crap I have ever climbed.

Butterfly Crack at Joshua Tree. 5.11b...yeah! if you have cam hooks for fingers and can do the splits.

Pit and the Pendulum, the Needles. One of three wobblers I've ever thrown, and one of the scariest retreats I've ever experienced.

Beached Nuts wrote:Is it a route that might be good but I can't do or just a shitty route? My answers will change depending on which guideline.

Yeah, I was going to start a thread called "most annoying climb ever", but depending on your definition, this could be just the thread. What'd you have in mind?

Heh. Everything in Yosemite. Except Bachar Cracker. Seriously, I spent like three weeks there and that was the only thing that I sent.

I managed the Bachar Cracker at age 18 totally by accident. I guess my hands where the perfect size. It was the talk of camp four for a couple of days. At the time there was a mattress under it. I guess the grand father of todays pads.

public solitude CCC

The early wide crack section of Hop Route on the appropriately named Necromancer Wall in Red Rock. It was one of my early trad leads (second or third one). I was about 2/3 of the way up the wide crack, and found myself so fu*ked, as my only piece in was crap (wasn't big enough for the crack, and it was my largest cam!) and I couldn't figure out a way to get another piece of pro in because I was so gripped, and I wasn't about to let go of either hand off the rock, as I was barn-dooring in, and out of the crack, and my useless rack kept getting caught up on me, and the rock, and I had such a bad case of Elvis leg. I looked so bad that my partner called up, " Look for what you're going to fall into." After I saw my options of the imaginary bullseyes on the hard ground, and the trees being too far for a graceful leap, I cried to myself, "Huh, WHA!?", and desperately climbed up higher, pulling the moves virtually unprotected out of the wide crack. I finally did get some good pro in when I got to a more comfortable stance above, and out of the wide crack, and finished out the route smiling.

That wide crack section is some fu*ked up shit for a new trad leader! The rest of the climb was a blast though; so a bomb for the wide crack start for a beginner, and 2.5 stars for the rest of the climb for all, and to all a good night! : )

Searching for sluts:
mountainproject.com/v/utah/…
Adjacent to a tower, "Pillar of Great Price", we put up a bunch of years ago. 1/2 of the tower has since fallen over!

North face of Mt Washington 5.8? (Oregon Cascades volcanic choss pile)
Everything is shattered. We stupidly let a party go in front of us because we were a party of three. I lost track of how many large rocks they knocked down before we even started. Started up when it seemed they were done knocking rocks off with out saying anything. Bringing the third up and the two of us heard a sound I will never forget the sickening sound of a very large rock spinning by our heads. How is it possible that a party of three scarcely knocks a few pebbles off and then another seems to be trundleing for fun?!! Descent is just as scary rapping off of deadmen buried under piles of dinner plate flakes. 1000 feet of scree sking to get back to the trail. Just plain scared all day. Never rock climb on cascade volcanos! Lesson well learned!

Beached Nuts wrote:Is it a route that might be good but I can't do or just a shitty route? My answers will change depending on which guideline.

If its just a plain ole not good route, The Farce(5.5, lover's leap, tahoe, California) comes to mind. Wandering in the unfun way, makes you do the splits if you get off route, and like resistance training on account of the rope drag unless you break it into three pitches.

As for possibly good routes that I just can't do, well, just insert pretty much any friction slab or OW climb you can think of.

Evan

Manufractured at the Bellafonte Quarry in PA should probably make this list. Got on it soon after the masonary saw dust settled. A little over the top, even for a quarry.

I want to say it's called Key crack, you know that "5.7" OW right there on the walk into the Gunks? Well that's definitely the only 5.7 I haven't been able to get off the ground on.

So Garrett up on the way to Windsor Lake are a couple of largish crags, one of which holds possibly the worst route in Lake County if not the entire upper Ark drainage: it's a wide, grainy (not to say crumbling) flared o-dub sort of affair, completely choked with pricker bushes and basically unprotectable. About 5.7. Traveses off to the top of a pillar. You'll love it.

Every pile of choss I've climbed in the North Cascades, and it's been quite a bit. Everything moves there and those peaks are more alive to me than most I have been on. The glaciers speak and make some of the most creapiest sounds I have ever heard, and they are pretty straight forward and some of the smaller ones seem quite benine, but they are very much alive. Seems every climb I have done there I have knocked off enough rock to start a new mountain. Probablly the scariest rappel of my life was off the top of Smokestack which I would like to see renamed Choss stack. On top of a skinny spire after knocking off as many tv size blocks as we could, we used A bunch of cordalettes, Like 4 or something to pretty much pull all the remaining loose blocks together into one giant pile, It worked, but not fun. Later in the Day while continuining to Kewati Ridge, I almost lost both hands by Millimeters from a tv block that almost landed on both hands, I felt it brush my fingers in the air as I pulled my hands up and jumped away. If I never climb in the Cascades again, I'm ok with that, On the contrary, The Cascades is some of the most Beautiful terrain and alpine environment in the states.

Crag Climb - Super Squeeze - The Dome, I got so stuck it made me feel like a piece of protection. Luckily, I was seconding so I was able to pop out and Batman around the bad spot (I know, I should have lowered off in shame).

Alpine Climb - NE Face of North Maroon Peak - That giant pile of teetering blocks is scary as hell. You need an Iron Man suit, not a helmet. I was standing on things the size of railroad cars that were moving when you stepped on them!

Shawn Mitchell wrote:Butterfly Crack at Joshua Tree. 5.11b...yeah! if you have cam hooks for fingers and can do the splits.

If it makes you feel any better, it's actually 5.11b/c, and it's gotten harder since the ground has eroded underneath. Word has it that Michael Reardon (who like me, wasn't very tall) couldn't do the bottom moves now that it's sunk.

It's just a couple of hard moves though and then 5.9 to the top. I was out there one day with Eric, Bob Critchfield and Bob Cox (if you knew them), bouldering around on it. I got the bottom moves and just kept going. Critchfield came up right behind me. That was a good afternoon.

That must have been and remain a Very Cool Moment, Fat Dad.

I think knew Critchfield, but not Cox.

Wishbone Arete, Mt. Robson.

We joked about carrying the biggest boulder we could find so we could use it for a belay rock.

Mt Robson, man I camped at the campsite around the corner from the Wishbone Arete, pretty amazing place! But wow, when I was there in late summer there was something big coming down that mountain, making huge noises about every 5 or 10 minutes, almost 24/7.