South Central NY Climbing Scene???

So, I just found out that I "may" have to move to the Corning/Elmira NY area from the front range of CO. I'm extremely paranoid as there appears to be no climbing (even in a gym) unless I drive 3 hours to the gunks or 5 hours to WV. I can build a wall to train on but am I looking at a 3-5 hour drive every weekend to get somewhere decent? Is there any scene whatsoever in this area? Any info greatly appreciated. Please help lessen my overwhelming paranoia.

Not exactly a climbing hot spot, but not hopeless either. 3 hours to the Gunks is doable, but to my knowledge there's nothing really there for rock (there is good ice in the finger lakes area, tons of falls). I would find out about areas in northern PA. Elmira is about 2.5 hours from the Delaware Water Gap (NJ/PA border) and there is some climbing there. There's good back country climbing in the southern Adirondacks but that's a bit further than the Gunks.

Cornell University opened a climbing wall in the early 1990s -- just an hour away from you. But as they were an early adaptor of the "climbing wall," it was very crude by today's standards -- dead vert walls, non-moveable holds, flat roofs with lots of mantles. Still, better than waiting for the weather in the gunks to cooperate. And by now, Ithaca should have a better option available. The climbing and outdoor Ed. community at Cornell back then was awesome, do check them out for possible trips and such. If nothing else, consider supplementing your outdoor life with other activities.... if it gets you through.

And I feel your pain. I moved to michigan from boulder this summer. If not for Planet Rock indoor gym being 1.5 miles from my house....

Cornell has the aforementioned Lindseth climbing wall-- mostly dead vertical with "natural rock" glued into cinder blocks. The climbing definitely requires a style of its own. More recently on another part of campus they built the Kay bouldering wall which is 30-40 ft. long and up to about 13-15 feet high... it's slightly overhung with "natural" features and jibs but mostly modular, movable holds.

If it's worth it to you to drive to Rochester, RIT has a pretty nice woody gym in a barn, with lots of overhanging and vertical stuff.

There's a little bit of other climbing closer than the Gunks (check out Little Falls/Moss Island or Blue Run Rocks), but it's definitely more worth it to just make the trek for the world class rock ;) Best of all Cornell has a pretty big climbing community between Cornell Outdoor Ed and the Outing Club so you probably won't be too hard up for a climbing partner.

Cornell's wall is limited to faculty or students only last time I looked. RIT has a wall, there is a commercial joint in Rochester also. Colgate has a public wall that is decent. There is climbing along the Niagara Escarpment also, but from what I hear it takes some getting used to. I live in Syracuse and the closest thing going is Little Falls or the far western Adirondacks. We often meet people from Rochester at Little falls because it is the only real rock around (Syenite which runs from glass smooth to cheese grater). The good news is the ice around here is pretty spectacular. Check out Salmon River Falls. The Adirondacks has tons of beautiful granite from single pitch to multi pitch vertical and totally run out slab. The new guide is adirondackrock.com/ - check out their photos. There is plenty to be had its just not as accessible as the Front range and its mostly trad. Living in Central New York you get used to making a weekend out of any outside activity.

^^ True that you have to be Cornell affiliated to climb at Cornell's walls--BUT all it takes to get affiliated is to take a "Learn to Climb" session (the cheapest option) or a private climbing lesson (pricier).. then you're a university affiliate and eligible for membership, even if you're not student/staff.

Katie McKenney wrote:^^ True that you have to be Cornell affiliated to climb at Cornell's walls--BUT all it takes to get affiliated is to take a "Learn to Climb" session (the cheapest option) or a private climbing lesson (pricier).. then you're a university affiliate and eligible for membership, even if you're not student/staff.

I did not know that, the web page doesn't mention such options. I will have to investigate further. Thanks,

There was a guy talking (on rc.com) about building a new large gym in Syracuse.

There is some limited outdoor climbing in northern PA.

Your best bet is probably rockventures in Rochester rockventures.net/

The climbing in the southern Adks is not as remote as everyone makes it sound. If you want boulders 9corners has a ton.

Mnt biking around the Ithaca area is stellar!

Thanks everyone, I was thinking that I typically drive 4 hours on the weekend to get to Moab it sounds like it won't be very much different getting to the gunks or the dacks. I've hiked around PA a lot when I was younger and I know I have seen boulders in the forest I just never knew what to do with them at the time.

I have a pretty good basement woodie that you are welcome to have some fun on, if you get up to the rochester area (red barn at RIT is pretty good too, and only $5)

As for climbing outdoors, there is boulders over near Salamanaca that has had recent work on...

I am destined to believe that my explorations will find climbable (read: NON SHALE) rock in the finger lakes, but so far nothing other than some stuff that is even weak to dry tool on....

-chris.

Any update on the climbing scene near Corning NY, both indoor and outdoor? I may move there from the Bay Area. As DavidHH back in 2009, I am also feeling paranoid about not finding much climbing opportunities in this area. how good are the gyms in Rochester and Syracuse? How the Blue Run Rocks area in PA? Thanks.

Totoch wrote:Any update on the climbing scene near Corning NY, both indoor and outdoor? I may move there from the Bay Area. As DavidHH back in 2009, I am also feeling paranoid about not finding much climbing opportunities in this area. how good are the gyms in Rochester and Syracuse? How the Blue Run Rocks area in PA? Thanks.

There's a good gym in Rochester called the red barn and a decent gym in Syracuse called the ledge. There's a good climbing scene in Syracuse (I lived there for 2 1/2 years). You just need to be willing to drive. You are nearby some really good bouldering in PA.

Nathan Stokes wrote:Cornell's wall is limited to faculty or students only last time I looked.

This is not true. I climbed there for a few months in 2014 and I was in no way affiliated with the school. Their website does not make the policy clear, I was under the impression that it was limited to students and their guests until I called CoE and asked.

That said, their wall may be closed at the moment - I heard that it was being remodeled.

tylermoody wrote: This is not true. I climbed there for a few months in 2014 and I was in no way affiliated with the school. Their website does not make the policy clear, I was under the impression that it was limited to students and their guests until I called CoE and asked. That said, their wall may be closed at the moment - I heard that it was being remodeled.

Keep in mind that this thread is from 2009.

Tparis wrote:There is some limited outdoor climbing in northern PA.

HA, homeboy's sssssooooooooo wrong.

I grew up just minutes from Corning and Elmira. As far as I know the rock is all shale around there.Gunks and Adirondacks might be your best bets.
The buildering at Cornell might be better than the rock wall. I went there before the Lindseth wall was built and we did have a lot of fun on some of the buildings, but it is probably still frowned upon.

DavidHH wrote:I was thinking that I typically drive 4 hours on the weekend to get to Moab it sounds like it won't be very much different getting to the gunks or the dacks.

There's lots of great climbing in the southern ADKs well within a 4 hour drive. Check out Pinnacle Mountain (if you like cracks, it's a must go!!), the Lost crags, Eagle Falls, and Indian Lake area for some of the best of the best. Most of these areas have pretty accessible car camping either right from the parking lots or just off in the woods to make an easy weekend out of it.

Best of luck with the move.

ClimbLikeAGirl wrote: There's lots of great climbing in the southern ADKs well within a 4 hour drive. Check out Pinnacle Mountain (if you like cracks, it's a must go!!), the Lost crags, Eagle Falls, and Indian Lake area for some of the best of the best. Most of these areas have pretty accessible car camping either right from the parking lots or just off in the woods to make an easy weekend out of it. Best of luck with the move.

Climblikeagirl is right! The Adirondacks have so much climbing nearby Syracuse/Rochester, you just have to be willing to drive a bit farther. I'd recommend checking out the ADK Rock book ( adirondackrock.com/) as it is a really good resource and much more detailed than mountain project. I miss climbing in the adirondacks!

I lived in CNY for 4 years, its wack, as a place and definitely as a place to live as a climber.
Don't move there.
Get a different job.
Or be poor.