By Aaron Hobson Administrator From: Las Cruces, NM Oct 14, 2009
Bob Almond and I finished to the top with Trad. Gear was adequate but tends to meander left into natural weaknesses on the face. We placed one bolt about 30 ft from the top in a chossy area (on lead no less), and a two-bolt rappel station at the top. Unfortunately, a single rope rappel from the top doesn't reach the anchors at the top of the first pitch. Do you know if the FAs intentions were to bolt the rest of the way to the top? A mid-way rappel station/anchor is something we think is needed.
From the description on the photo, It seems pretty obvious that once things cool off we will be back to finish the line to the top. Until then there is plenty of rock there, no need to be adding bolts to existing projects. It was poor form to be adding bolts to an uncompleted project.
Vaino and I will be back this winter to finish bolting the line to the top and add anchors.
As mentioned by me, Lee, and Djkyote many of these lines are still projects and please respect that by not adding bolts to them. You are of course welcome to climb someone else's route, top out, and start your own route, preferably far away from the previous route.
I also feel that it is in bad form at this point to use the anchors of someone else's route to rap bolt your own route. There is plenty of rock there, start your own FA on virgin rock.
By Aaron Hobson Administrator From: Las Cruces, NM Oct 15, 2009
No dis-resepect was meant by us, and if you want to chop the bolt/anchors go right ahead. We were simply tempted onto the 2nd pitch by the lone bolt placed past the anchors, and then as we got further up the face decided that a bolt was needed rather than run-out on potentially loose rock.