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By Hook or By Crook
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.6 from 38
votes
Routes in Harlequin Dome
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[Redacted] T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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By Hook or By Crook T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Chinese Handcuffs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cyclone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Heat Sensitive S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Hoodwink T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sausalito Archie's Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Sting, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Third World T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Trilogy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Falkenstein & Dave Hitchcock, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 3,657 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
By Hook or By Crook is an awesome, technical, and thought-provoking three-pitch climb up Harlequin Dome -- a candidate for one of the best 5.11's in Tuolumne.
P1: Begin at a shallow, right-leaning, right-facing dihedral at the center of the wall, near a large pine. Recent rockfall has made this pitch more difficult and more dangerous -- a stick clip for the first bolt is highly recommended. Ascend this corner via smears and powerful liebacks until a stance at the anchor below a roof. 5.11b.
P2: Start P2 by going right, clip an old bolt and then hand traverse to the right. The route then traverses left to an arete-like feature formed by a shallow right-facing corner. Climb this after clipping an oddly-placed bolt (consider backcleaning or a long runner) up to a poor stance under a roof. Hand-traverse back right a few feet and pull through the roof on extremely powerful liebacks. Good, small gear here. Continue up to another bolted belay. 5.11b, crux. It is possible to descend from here with two raps on a single 60m rope, but the third pitch should not be missed. Bring a second rope in this case or be prepared to walk off.
P3: Climb a long, tricky, right-facing corner to the top. 5.10c.
P1: Begin at a shallow, right-leaning, right-facing dihedral at the center of the wall, near a large pine. Recent rockfall has made this pitch more difficult and more dangerous -- a stick clip for the first bolt is highly recommended. Ascend this corner via smears and powerful liebacks until a stance at the anchor below a roof. 5.11b.
P2: Start P2 by going right, clip an old bolt and then hand traverse to the right. The route then traverses left to an arete-like feature formed by a shallow right-facing corner. Climb this after clipping an oddly-placed bolt (consider backcleaning or a long runner) up to a poor stance under a roof. Hand-traverse back right a few feet and pull through the roof on extremely powerful liebacks. Good, small gear here. Continue up to another bolted belay. 5.11b, crux. It is possible to descend from here with two raps on a single 60m rope, but the third pitch should not be missed. Bring a second rope in this case or be prepared to walk off.
P3: Climb a long, tricky, right-facing corner to the top. 5.10c.
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