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Malander's Passage
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Lower East Face
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Alexander's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Crack of Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Diagonal Super Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Directagonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Endless Summer T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Fields' Chimney (summer) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Grey Pillar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Kor's Door T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Malander's Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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North Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Rap Descent from Top of Lower East Face T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Stettner's Ledges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Malander |
| Page Views: | 2,585 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Errett Allen on Aug 7, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This is a good alternative to Kor's Door or Stettner's Ledges if these routes are occupied. We did this following Kor's and a quick rap descent down Alexander's Chimney (see the Alexander's description for rap info). This would be a 3-star route if the third pitch wasn't junky. The first 2 pitches follow asthetic and continuous crack and face climbing on beautiful polished golden granite.
P1. About 30 feet down and to the right of the start of Kor's Door, look for a narrow ledge running to the right that peters out after about 30 feet and about 6 feet left of a shallow left facing dihedral crack. Traverse across the ledge and where it ends, drop down onto your hands and face climb right to the base of the dihedral -- 5.8+. This section is sporty with questionable pro and grim fall potential. Be solid at this grade. Climb the dihedral/crack and where it peters out, traverse right on face past an ancient quarter-inch bolt to another thin crack. Ascend the crack for 100 feet (5.8) with occasional forays onto face to the right. Eventually face climb slightly left of the crack to a small stance and belay.
P2. Continue up the crack system for 100 feet or more of superb finger locks (5.8). When the crack turns to 2.5 inch hand size, climb about another 40-50 feet to a good belay ledge at the base of a dirty right facing dihedral.
P3. Climb the dihedral (fixed pin) and continue up a series of dihedrals, flakes and cracks that generally trend to the left. After about 150 feet start to look for an unobvious traverse to the left to a long ledge system. Find a belay (we ran out all the rope). This is the ledge system that allows an easy traverse to the left (East) to the rappels of Alexander's. The best landmark for the start of this ledge is a stack of blocks pasted to the face. The alternative is to continue up Kor's or Stettner's to Broadway.
From the horror stories you read about the Broadway and Lamb's Slide descents, I would highly recommend the Alexander's rappels which were convenient and quick but very wet.
P1. About 30 feet down and to the right of the start of Kor's Door, look for a narrow ledge running to the right that peters out after about 30 feet and about 6 feet left of a shallow left facing dihedral crack. Traverse across the ledge and where it ends, drop down onto your hands and face climb right to the base of the dihedral -- 5.8+. This section is sporty with questionable pro and grim fall potential. Be solid at this grade. Climb the dihedral/crack and where it peters out, traverse right on face past an ancient quarter-inch bolt to another thin crack. Ascend the crack for 100 feet (5.8) with occasional forays onto face to the right. Eventually face climb slightly left of the crack to a small stance and belay.
P2. Continue up the crack system for 100 feet or more of superb finger locks (5.8). When the crack turns to 2.5 inch hand size, climb about another 40-50 feet to a good belay ledge at the base of a dirty right facing dihedral.
P3. Climb the dihedral (fixed pin) and continue up a series of dihedrals, flakes and cracks that generally trend to the left. After about 150 feet start to look for an unobvious traverse to the left to a long ledge system. Find a belay (we ran out all the rope). This is the ledge system that allows an easy traverse to the left (East) to the rappels of Alexander's. The best landmark for the start of this ledge is a stack of blocks pasted to the face. The alternative is to continue up Kor's or Stettner's to Broadway.
From the horror stories you read about the Broadway and Lamb's Slide descents, I would highly recommend the Alexander's rappels which were convenient and quick but very wet.
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