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 ADVANCED
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Heel toeing in the strange slot. The rope runs into the "cave" to some gear deep inside. You can tunnel up further and totally top rope this first crux. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
You can squeeze through (maybe) from the inside to this position, or you can climb the outside and then swing into the squeeze. From here, it's a struggle to reach the jams at the base of the crack. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
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Still hard! Getting through the "A"-shaped alcove below Paul is quite hard. Where Paul is is straightforward splitter jams but sustained. Higher up it gets a little strange as it gets wider. You really want 4 or 5 gold Camalots for this pitch. Paul lowered almost to the belay to back clean. Chuck Graves, on a subsequent ascent, lowered twice to back clean.
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Still hard! Getting through the "A"-shaped alcove below Paul is quite hard. Where Paul is is straightforward splitter jams but sustained. Higher up it gets a little strange as it gets wider. You really want 4 or 5 gold Camalots for this pitch. Paul lowered almost to the belay to back clean. Chuck Graves, on a subsequent ascent, lowered twice to back clean.

Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Aug 20, 2009
On this route:
Better Lock Next Time (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b )
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Photo Of: Paul Rezucha