Wind Rivers, But Not Cirque / Deep Lake

I'm asking for suggestions where to go in the Wind Rivers...besides Deep Lake and the Cirque. Although those locations are amazing, I've visited each several times. What's next?

We're looking for what every one else wants: long, perfect 5.8 - 5.10 routes. Oh, and also like every one else, we only have about 5 days for our trip.

Thanks for your ideas!

Shadow Lake. SW on Sharksnose.
or
East Fork, Midsummer Dome, Ambush

Go climb Square Top and come back with a TR. I always wanted to do that thing but have not been there. Quite a few long routes in that difficulty range, I believe, maybe mostly 10's.

I second Norm's idea- go do the Red Dihedral on the E face of Ambush- amazing route. Then crag on Midsummer's Dome, and finish it off with an ascent of my favorite route in the Winds, the Kor-Beckey route on Musembeah, be sure to finish on the 4-pitch arete.

Other options for good rock: Antelope Arete on Pronghorn Peak; Little Sandy Buttress (from the Dutch Joe trail head).

Thanks all. I'd forgotten about Ambush. That looks really good

All these areas are great. I third the suggestion of sw sharksnose route. From looking at it years ago, that would be on my list. And midsummer dome has some good lines for cragging. The two are within 5 miles +/- of each other. Access is reasonable to these for a five day trip.

Good quality rock and few people in the east fork valley. Especially for Ambush/Raid/Musembeah(longer approach, Baptiste lake area) and Pronghorn(awesome looking peak in the middle fork area).

I would definitely second the vote for Squaretop. We did an FA of a 2400' route a few years ago and found virtually no loose rock. The approach was pretty casual due to the minimal elevation gain. East Fork/Midsummer/Ambush etc. are also good objectives and not too bad approach wise as well.

I'm curious about the routes Lynn listed. I think there is a Golden Dihedral in the guidebook, but I dont see a Red Dihedral. And I dont think there is anything about the Musembeah route. Any more info??

I'm assuming we're talking about golden dihedral on ambush. I see that route in the 1994 Kelsey guidebook. Looks great.

Lynn, Norm: how far is the walk into ambush? Kelsey lists it as about 15 miles, I think. Is it steep? How does in compare to Big Sandy - Cirque hike?

Red dihedral, golden dihedral... my memory is faulty. Either way it's a great route. Go in from Big Sandy and it is quite flat, up into the East Fork, past Marm's and Dad's Lakes, and past the turnoff for Shadow Lake. Nothing like the grunt over Jackass Pass.

We had a base camp at Pyramid Lake. Not sure on the mileage but we went in and out in a day apiece. We actually shared a drop pack setup with some friends who were climbing on Hooker- let the horses bring it all in for us, but then hiked gear and garbage out easily in a day.

And Musembeah, hmmm, it is above Baptiste Lake, over on the reservation. You get there by going over Hailey Pass and hang a north around the stunning N face of Hooker. I know there is a route description in the Kelsey guide.

Hi Lynne!

Never guess where I was a week ago... well you probably will, but I didn't catch the big one this time. Fond memories of 198-- um 5? 6? 7?

Hope you are well.

I went to South Pass about 5 years ago and climbed Symbiosis (10-) and Gold Dihedral (5.9) which are both in the Kelsey book. They are both about 1000 feet long, steep, and awesome--as good as anything I've done in the Cirque or Deep Lake.

Even better, the approach is easier than to the Cirque (about 8 miles, but without the Jackass Pass hump), and we didn't see another soul there the entire time.

Just curious if Zac went into the Winds, did any of the above?

And a big hello to Ben Hicks- how could I forget the biggest fish you almost caught. I think that was 1987.

Those South Pass routes are on the Little Sandy Buttress, I believe. Best accessed from the Dutch Joe trail, which is just a few miles before Big Sandy Opening RH.