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Sticking the crux cross.

Id# 106517536,  Dimensions: 1944 x 1296 - View full size 

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By Luke Childers
Sep 20, 2009

Love the photo!! Love that move... almost as much as the next two moves... and the pop to the (r) jug for a quick rest is so good. What a cool line. It also has a deceptively hard start to get into the 1st up ward leaning horizontal!!! Get down, man!! Love this line.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Nov 16, 2012

A slightly downward heel toe cam with the left foot makes that move go a lot easier.

By richard magill
Nov 20, 2012

Who showed you that trick?

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Nov 22, 2012

You mean the left the toe cam I'm doing?

By richard magill
Nov 23, 2012

Sometime during the previous millenium I discovered that a downward left toe cam (actually in my conception I think it was a bit more parallel with the crack) followed by a clock-like left hand move was the key to getting that move. Tzilla, who also had been having trouble at that spot, was belaying at the time and I think I saw a lightbulb go off above his head, somewhat like a cartoon character.

Great photo! Such a brilliant route....

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Nov 26, 2012

Yep, except I pointed my foot downward along the crack instead of straight in, a minor distinction, but it seemed to make the move much more static. It's great when you can sponge beta from one of your buddies and get the send!

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Avg Score   5.0 from 3 votes
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Sticking the crux cross.

Submitted By: Monty on Aug 14, 2009
On this route:
Anarchitect (5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b )