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> Melting Mud Wall
Sinistar
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 24
votes
Routes in The Melting Mud Wall
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1st Tram S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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1st Tram Direct Start (aka Alta Girls Have Cute Mustaches) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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AltaTraz S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Antidote S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bird Is the Word, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Brain Doner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cotton Mouth King S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dayglow Abortions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Go Pogo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Los Crudos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Martinez Mind Melter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Melting Bird, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Melting Into Madness S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Minor Threat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pogo Punk S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Public Nuisance S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rat Bastards S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Repeat and Offend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Septic Death S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sinistar S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Study Break S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wisky Bench S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Alan Humphrey Aaron Rickshaw, 9/2001 |
| Page Views: | 3,000 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Sep 13, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Stay on the trails
Details
This is private property. Respect it and consider it a privilege to climb here.
Description (2 or 3 in this one)
Sinistar is one of the older HelmetGate lines which departs a bit from the sanitized feel you get after climbing one too many lines on Melting Mud. Expect a bit of gnar, a (fair) bit of sand, big moves, ugly old bolts and an assload of fun and pump on this one.
The black rock at the bottom is Devils Castle-ish, the white rounded choss in the middle is reminiscent of Ibex's eroded caves, and the headwall feels like typical pockety HelmetGate.
The start is a bit in your face and the hardest moves on the route might be right off the ground (they won't feel bad at all when fresh). Clip the ancient bolt and make your way through blocky sidepulls and a few long moves until your reach the chossier rock/chossiest rock divide below the start of the overhanging section.
Catch a rest, ask for the protection of whatever deity you believe in and fire up the roof using jugs that have been defying erosion and gravity for way too long.
You might want to thread the 2nd bolt in the white section with a runner instead of clipping it, it's resting in a recess and would take a lot of torque if you fell on it...
Shuffle up and slightly right through a pumpy section of pancake pinching and sidepulls until you cross the ill-defined chossiest rock/chossy rock boundary and re-enter HelmetGate style climbing. Brush an unbelievable amount of sand from your hands, shoes and eyes, start breathing again and motor up the pocketed headwall to the longest set of chains you'll ever see (longer that Sasquatch).
Lower and proceed to dodge the sand avalanches the next climber will be sending your way if you're belaying - while trying not to fall of the slowly decomposing belay stance.
Did I mention this one is really good? GO DO IT.
The black rock at the bottom is Devils Castle-ish, the white rounded choss in the middle is reminiscent of Ibex's eroded caves, and the headwall feels like typical pockety HelmetGate.
The start is a bit in your face and the hardest moves on the route might be right off the ground (they won't feel bad at all when fresh). Clip the ancient bolt and make your way through blocky sidepulls and a few long moves until your reach the chossier rock/chossiest rock divide below the start of the overhanging section.
Catch a rest, ask for the protection of whatever deity you believe in and fire up the roof using jugs that have been defying erosion and gravity for way too long.
You might want to thread the 2nd bolt in the white section with a runner instead of clipping it, it's resting in a recess and would take a lot of torque if you fell on it...
Shuffle up and slightly right through a pumpy section of pancake pinching and sidepulls until you cross the ill-defined chossiest rock/chossy rock boundary and re-enter HelmetGate style climbing. Brush an unbelievable amount of sand from your hands, shoes and eyes, start breathing again and motor up the pocketed headwall to the longest set of chains you'll ever see (longer that Sasquatch).
Lower and proceed to dodge the sand avalanches the next climber will be sending your way if you're belaying - while trying not to fall of the slowly decomposing belay stance.
Did I mention this one is really good? GO DO IT.
Location
Sinistar sits West of the pillar that marks the left end of the Melting Mud Wall. Approach as for Melting Mud, skip the last switchback and head West to a giant alcove featuring 3 layers of rock: compact black, sandy rounded white and brittle looking gray. Kinda like a layered cake. One that tastes like sand and choss.
Scramble up into the alcove looking for an old trinket bolt at the base of a steep blocky section of black rock. Look up and be scared. You should see another bolted line to your right. If you don't, you're about to get spanked on Septic Death.
Scramble up into the alcove looking for an old trinket bolt at the base of a steep blocky section of black rock. Look up and be scared. You should see another bolted line to your right. If you don't, you're about to get spanked on Septic Death.
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