Approach Shoes

What is your favorite approach shoe? What gives the most durability for the buck? The most support in hiking? The best technical shoe?

For some perspective I will be using it to beat Shawn Mitchell's time on Freeway.

I'm loving my Scarpa Zens... At first they felt a little tight in the toe but they didn't bother me at all on the long approach to Spearhead. They edge good on climbs and kick butt on the talus. They are (hopefully getting me up the Complete Exum later this week. They have last years model on the net for around 80 bucks.

five tennies all the way... light, sticky and supportive as long as you aren't carrying too much weight.

I like the Evolv Rex, I have two pairs and think they are the bees knees. I have a pair of 5.10s that aren't as supportive that I don't like as much. The Rex is on sale for $35 (add to cart, the price on the product page is incorrect) so right now they are a pretty good deal. I've done the Spearhead approach in them with a heavy pack and they were good, my knees - not so much.

evolvesports.com/REXM.htm

Edit: they are great for Flatirons, too.

those evolvs look sweet. but they don't have my size...10.5:( I'll have to look for them at neptunes. the tennies are probably my next choice but will have to look at the scarpas also.

I've been curious about approach shoes, as well. I'm looking for something I can use as a trail runner & easy solo shoe - anyone have any experience with the Sportiva Exum Pro?

Phil, too bad! They are great (and cheap if they have your size). I hope they come out with a new version since it looks like they are discontinuing that one. These two new shoes from Evolv look like the replacements and look like the same sole/last as the Rex, but I haven't tried them out.

evolvesports.com/EXIES.htm

evolvesports.com/SERPICO.htm



I had a pair of Montrail CTCs and those were alright but if I fit them tight enough to climb in they hurt my toes. I have wider feet and hiking downhill in them wasn't fun.

Aaron Martinuzzi wrote:I've been curious about approach shoes, as well. I'm looking for something I can use as a trail runner & easy solo shoe - anyone have any experience with the Sportiva Exum Pro? The Scarpa Zens don't really fit my foot, and I'm looking for something that could handle a few-mile approach with gear, which is why I'm leaning toward the Exums.

Exums are great. I luv mine and pretty much all the Minions flatirons scramblers are wearing them too. The pro is a slightly updated version of last years. Bill had them on this morning and they looked great. I've done all day hikes in them with a base camp pack and they're as good as any of my other trail runners. Probably wear out slightly faster but it's worth it for the sticky rubber on solos.

Chris Plesko wrote: Exums are great. I luv mine and pretty much all the Minions flatirons scramblers are wearing them too. The pro is a slightly updated version of last years. Bill had them on this morning and they looked great. I've done all day hikes in them with a base camp pack and they're as good as any of my other trail runners. Probably wear out slightly faster but it's worth it for the sticky rubber on solos.

good to know, thanks.

I know. I'm bummed... and I'm hesitant to get a 10 since that will most likely be too small.

Phil-
I tried on an Evolve # 10 (my regular street size) of some sweet approach shoe (don't know exact model) at Boulder Sports Recycler, and it was intolerably small. Don't know if it was an abberation or representative, but I intend to try them on at the store before buying even my regular size.

And sheesh. You better beat me...I sit down and change from tennis shoes to climbing shoes at the base!

Old La Sportiva Boulder, all the way. Less comfy than most on approach, but they climb like a dream (especially on cracks and slabs). Very durable too. I am still dreaming of the day that La Sportiva brings them back. Until then, I will continue to resole the ones I have.

Mark Cushman wrote:I like the Evolv Rex, I have two pairs and think they are the bees knees. I have a pair of 5.10s that aren't as supportive that I don't like as much. The Rex is on sale for $35 (add to cart, the price on the product page is incorrect) so right now they are a pretty good deal. I've done the Spearhead approach in them with a heavy pack and they were good, my knees - not so much. evolvesports.com/REXM.htm Edit: they are great for Flatirons, too.

The rex's are really nice, I picked up a pair on the cheap as well. Two things I didn't like is that the arch section of the sole is very narrow. If you have a lot of pronation it's quite a bit more noticeable. Second is they have a very low, but highly padded ankle like a skate shoe. Not much support.

That being said I still like and wear them all the time on approaches and are definintely worth $35. Sticky and tough.

And one more note...they run big. I wear a size ten in the evols and that's with mortensen's toe.

Hey if someone wants a pair of men's 10.5 Evolv Exies I have a pair that have been worn lightly (3 short approaches to climbs) Practically brand new... They just don't fit my feet. $40.00 plus shipping email me if interested.
Dallen

Another vote for the 5.10 camp four. Supportive enough to make me forget I ever had tendinitis in my knees, durable enough for trips up the cap'n, and as good as anything on <5.6. Not the cheapest shoes out there, but they'll last (unless your partner drops them while lowering out the bag across the hollow flake pendulum!) and they feel great running in and out of the mountains. Rigid enough sole for standing in aiders, but enough give for hiking those slabs. Surely the stickiest approach shoe rubber out there as well.

Phil Lauffen wrote:What is your favorite approach shoe? What gives the most durability for the buck? The most support in hiking? The best technical shoe?

Big fan of the La Sportiva Exum. They climb fairly ok, hike distance well, scramble well, drain well, are fairly sticky, and my feet feel less beat up in them than any other. They also take my lightweight crampons really well (fit is amazing on the Stubai aluminum models).

Have tried B5's (ok, but, not that durable and didn't hike distance that well), Cirque Pro (too heavy and don't hike near as well), couple of different 5.10 models (didn't hike that well, probably more of a fit issue), Nike ACG models like the Teewinot and another proto (worked great, climbed well, not available any more), Nike Lava Domes (original models, didn't hike that well and rubber wasn't sticky), Montrail CTC's (really painful toe bang!), and a few others I can't think of...(lowa, etc).

Just like a running shoe, if you use your shoes for high milage, you'll need to replace them fairly often, or, they just won't give you the support you should have. I think a lot of approach shoes get really abused. Its tough terrain!

Five Tens are great if they fit you. I know a lot of people who use the Camp 4's and Exum's and love them. But my skinny feet won't work with them. I personally love my Montrail CTC Mid XCR's. They are super supportive, waterproof but not too hot, and climb better than any other beefy approach shoe I've tried. For hot days and shorter hikes I use Scarpa Expresso's, which climb almost as well as a rock shoe.

Aaron Martinuzzi wrote:I've been curious about approach shoes, as well. I'm looking for something I can use as a trail runner & easy solo shoe - anyone have any experience with the Sportiva Exum Pro?

I use the Exum River Runner, which unfortunately, isn't made anymore. I have heard rumors they are bringing the line back, but nothing yet. They do great on ruff and long approaches and I even climb moderate sport routes in them.

Lately I have been doing approaches in my Chaco sandals, which are supposed to be a "hiking sandal."

chacousa.com/US/en-US/ViewP…

I have done some long approaches in them which requires 3rd class scrambles, nothing more though. So far, I have enjoyed them. They are easier to haul on multi-pitch routes that end in a different place than you start. Plus, much nicer to slip on and off when sport climbing, than shoes. I have been... Arizona'ed into sandals, I guess.

Well, one bad thing about the Chaco's... You have to put sunscreen on the tops of your feet. If you don't, it's not fun, and that's from experience.

Bobby Hanson wrote:Old La Sportiva Boulder, all the way. Less comfy than most on approach, but they climb like a dream (especially on cracks and slabs). Very durable too. I am still dreaming of the day that La Sportiva brings them back. Until then, I will continue to resole the ones I have.

Your in luck, I belive a new version of the Boulders is in the plans for Spring 2010.

hands down the guide tennie. you can even climb some routes in them...

Spiro wrote:hands down the guide tennie. you can even climb some routes in them...

Hands Down! I climb most everything i can in my tennies. If you add an arch support, you may be psyched. I need a lil arch. I started having the outfitters in Joshua Tree sew on some leather right when i get them. They seem to wear out on the outside (pinky toe) from jamming in them. They are light and they smear well. The comfort factor is huge while crack climbing. I say it is the best for your buck.

Good luck with the project!