Type: | Trad |
FA: | Jim Ericson, solo 1980 |
Page Views: | 7,303 total · 29/month |
Shared By: | Frances Fierst on May 27, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Dihedral is also posted on this site as Cornered. Climb Your Basic Lieback and set up a belay. There is a rap station to your left, but it is easier to stay near the recess where Dihedral, Wired, and Forbidden Planet begin (see Rossiter's sketch on page 136 of his new guide).
Climb through a short rotten section, then head into the obvious dihedral and cut left and climb around the left side of a positive flake. Going straight up the steep finger crack is solid 5.9 (see the description for Cornered). Once on top of the ramp, move up and right to the anchor on top of Forbidden Planet.
Rap down and slightly left on a rotten band to another rap station. One more rap with a 60 meter rope gets you to the ground (just barely).
Rossiter lists this climb as a 5.9-, but his sketch shows the flake variation as 5.7. I led it and I believe the 5.7 rating shown in the sketch. Linked with Your Basic Lieback, this makes for high quality moderate climb, as well as a great warm up for Star Wars.
Climb through a short rotten section, then head into the obvious dihedral and cut left and climb around the left side of a positive flake. Going straight up the steep finger crack is solid 5.9 (see the description for Cornered). Once on top of the ramp, move up and right to the anchor on top of Forbidden Planet.
Rap down and slightly left on a rotten band to another rap station. One more rap with a 60 meter rope gets you to the ground (just barely).
Rossiter lists this climb as a 5.9-, but his sketch shows the flake variation as 5.7. I led it and I believe the 5.7 rating shown in the sketch. Linked with Your Basic Lieback, this makes for high quality moderate climb, as well as a great warm up for Star Wars.
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