Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Sam Lightner JR and Brad Brandewie
Page Views: 1,574 total · 9/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Jul 22, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route takes off from the notch between the tower and the main wall. IT starts with a 90 foot seam, followed by broken free climbing to the summit.

The aid seem is perfect for peckers and thin pins (at the moment). We only had 4 of such, so we were forced to do like 15-25 feet of climbing (occasional other gear) then place a bolt, lower and clean, and repeat the process. That said, there are like 4 bolts on the first pitch to break up the seem. It could be done on nothing but peckers, but the worst rock is at the very top so, well, wear a hat!

The very last moves of the second pitch require heavy use of the teetery block seen on the right side of the summit in Brads video. Its a bit disconcerting. Again, wear a hat and try not to piss it off.

P1 = Directly across from the rappel climb the seem to a ledge that has two bolts. ONe bolt is bad... it went in funky. Sorry. IT can be backed up.

P2 = Climb up and left past a bolt to a very committing (ankles away) slab move. Like 9+ or 10-, but a bit soft and with ramifications. Follow a corner, traverse across the ledge, climb through some choss and up an arete to the teetery block. We had a name for it that hopefully Brad can remember. Pull real hard to get past the thing onto the summit ledge.

You have to do a boulder problem to actually top out, then reverse it to get back to the rappel/tyrolean ledge.

Location Suggest change

The permanantly shady side of Amazon Tower.

Protection Suggest change

Lots of thin gear, a set of nuts, a complete set or two of cams, a few quickdraws, and a sense of humor.

Photos

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