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Routes in First Flatiron
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Atalanta T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Baker's Way T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Butterfly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Direct Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Dumais Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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East Face Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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East Face North Side T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Fandango T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fandango Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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First in Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Hubris T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Kamikaze Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Massugu T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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North Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Red Slab Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Southwest Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Way of the Ancients T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Rossiter & Baldwin, 1977 (solo) |
| Page Views: | 5,597 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 2, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is a great route on great rock- resembles the route Butterfly in many ways. It LACKS PROTECTION for long stretches.
Pitch 1 (5.6, S): Start up in a chimney-sized groove and after a short distance, step left up and onto the slab, heading left to intercept a line of odd brick-like blocks and puzzle-pieces. These can be climbed for ~70 meters to top out left onto a ramp and a belay.
Pitch 2 (5.7, VS): From that belay, move up a good distance to some nice boulders below a double roof. This will give you more rope for the 71-meter pitch you are about ready to do. The first above is wider and larger, the second is smaller and arch-shaped. Watching for any loose rock (and mind you, with lack of gear) go over the right side of roof #1, then up the center of roof #2. Continue up and left though a very seriously runout water-groove. You can bail-out to the right, but we found that you can continue up this perfect rock for 70 meters to join "Baker's Way" just below a ledge just below where it intercepts the Direct East Face.
Pitch 3 (5.4): Go a short way up "Baker's Way" and join "Direct East Face" for one long pitch to the summit Ridge of the "North Arete."
Pitch 4 & 5 (5.0): Join the North Arete to the summit in 2 very pitches.
Pitch 1 (5.6, S): Start up in a chimney-sized groove and after a short distance, step left up and onto the slab, heading left to intercept a line of odd brick-like blocks and puzzle-pieces. These can be climbed for ~70 meters to top out left onto a ramp and a belay.
Pitch 2 (5.7, VS): From that belay, move up a good distance to some nice boulders below a double roof. This will give you more rope for the 71-meter pitch you are about ready to do. The first above is wider and larger, the second is smaller and arch-shaped. Watching for any loose rock (and mind you, with lack of gear) go over the right side of roof #1, then up the center of roof #2. Continue up and left though a very seriously runout water-groove. You can bail-out to the right, but we found that you can continue up this perfect rock for 70 meters to join "Baker's Way" just below a ledge just below where it intercepts the Direct East Face.
Pitch 3 (5.4): Go a short way up "Baker's Way" and join "Direct East Face" for one long pitch to the summit Ridge of the "North Arete."
Pitch 4 & 5 (5.0): Join the North Arete to the summit in 2 very pitches.
Location
A few hundred feet up and left of the Direct East Face, and above a massive boulder that has to be circumnavigated to get to the base. Start up into a groove just right of a junky corner.
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