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LIttle Cotton Wood Canyon toproping

Original Post
Tim M · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 50

Hey all,

I'm making a road trip out to Alta in a few weeks for a friends wedding. I was hoping to go climbing while I'm there, but it will be just about the time I'm healed from a severe ankle sprain. So I'm not really up for leading any climbs, and my partner doesn't lead yet.

Can anyone suggest some good toproping climbs in the area that have easy approaches? I think that would be the best for my ankle getting back into shape!

Thanks!

Tim

Ben Ricketts · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 41

There is not a ton of top roping
The first route that I can think of is Bong Eater. It's a 10d that is only about 50' long and can you can easily walk to the top of it. However it is very low in the canyon and gets a lot of sun. It will go into the shade in the afternoon. It's mostly a hand crack with a couple of harder moves at the top. It has a short approach.

Cecret Lake in Albion Basin, up canyon from Alta's base might be a good option too. However, I have never climbed there.

If you are up to leading 5.6 the first couple of pitches of penta pitch are fun and shandy until the afternoon.

Good Luck.

philfell · · Olympic Valley, CA · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 120

There are a few climbs at Lisa Falls that can be TR'ed. Left of the waterfall is a bolted 10b look up and locate the anchors. Then scramble to the left of the slab to the anchors.

If you plan to do the 10B clib the bolts as you lower down to avoid any swings you may take.

The routes directly below the anchors go at 5.8.

This are also has a pretty short approach. The Bong eater mentioned above can also be easily TR'ed, but the approach is longer and the climbing may be harder than you are looking for if just getting back at it.

Pretty much all the other climbs in the canyon I can think of you must lead at least something first.

The routes at the mouth of Parelys Canyon are easily TR'ed, and they are out of the sun.

Tico · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

There are usually a lot of people out at the Hellgate area in the afternoon; if you're nice and bring some decent microbrews you should be able to scam all the TR's you want.

Keep an eye out for a little brown man. That dude likes his imperial IPA. Greenflash, if you can find it.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746
brick75 wrote:There is not a ton of top roping The first route that I can think of is Bong Eater.
Daytime temp's are pretty hot for south facing in LCC. And, with a bad ankle, I wouldn't recommend the hump up there in the heat and "standard" looseness.

I'd suggest Alta, maybe one of the newer crags, but, most have a bit of an approach.

I guess I'd suggest TRin' in BCC as there are probably more options and closer, easier approaches. Its also shadier and tends to be quite a bit cooler.

Up at Alta, Cosmic Web has a fairly easy approach, but, I can't remember if you can get to the top to TR or not. Cecret Lake has a fairly easy trail approach, but, still some scrambly looseness that might not be fun for a bad wheel.
ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,084

Approaches in the Cottonwoods are not easy and don't much lend themselves to TR'ing.

Your first best bet is to cross over the road at Alta from the Hellgate Condos to the Clamshell and bribe someone to get on their TR, as has been suggested, or haul your TR up. There are some easy sport routes just above the road.

Same thing could said for the Slips in BCC. Once you get on the ledge you could TR about 4 easy routes (5.6-5.8), would be good for both of you.

You can hike onto the top of Narcolepsy in BCC and TR a few routes in the 8-10 range, pretty good stuff.

Tim M · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 50

Thanks for all the replies! The climbing in Alta sounds like fun, so I think I may look into that a bit more.

Does anyone have suggestions of where to camp near Alta? Any good free areas?

STH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 5
Tim M wrote: Any good free areas?
Just follow the chiseld, spray paint signs on the granite.
Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

There is a paid campground in Albion Basin. Otherwise for free camping you need to be 1/2 from the road. Trying to boot leg camping is not recommended as there is a fair amount of LEO activity due to car clouts.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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