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Cottage Cheese
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 20
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Routes in North Face
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Cottage Cheese T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Geekin' Hard T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pencil-Necked Geek T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Higgins, Ben Borrison, 8/68 |
| Page Views: | 1,757 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Aug 7, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Although rated 5.10a by Don Reid's guide, this nice two pitch crack route on the southwest corner of West Cottage Dome seems harder to us compared to other routes in Tuolumne.
Pitch one is a very nice finger crack with some hands and liebacks, sustained 5.10- that ends on a nice ledge. Move the belay left about 20 feet on the ledge and climb the super physical corner/roof with bomber hand jams. The crux is in the first 15 feet followed by a short, easy offwidth and then some 5.7ish hand crack climbing. Despite great jams, lots of large holds around and great protection, this second pitch seemed really hard!
Pitch one is a very nice finger crack with some hands and liebacks, sustained 5.10- that ends on a nice ledge. Move the belay left about 20 feet on the ledge and climb the super physical corner/roof with bomber hand jams. The crux is in the first 15 feet followed by a short, easy offwidth and then some 5.7ish hand crack climbing. Despite great jams, lots of large holds around and great protection, this second pitch seemed really hard!
Location
This route is on the southwest corner of West Cottage Dome. It starts on a ledge reached by moderate climbing that probably should be roped or belay lower than Reid's guide shows. The first pitch is the right crack of two dihedrals. Easy down climbing off the east then down through the notch west between Daff Dome and West Cottage. The descent should take about 15 minutes.
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