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Elevation: 7,559 ft
GPS: 38.89233, -104.90589
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,790 total · 57/month
Shared By: B Haus on Oct 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Private Property DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This tiny crags hosts some of the best short, steep, and perfect limestone in Colorado Springs with routes from 5.7 to 5.12d! With a south-facing amphitheatre and all day sun, this crag is perfect year round and can be a nice afternoon workout area for locals.

Most routes are between 15 and 20 feet tall, and a handful of them have been soloed or bouldered. Bring 8 draws and you should be able to do everything there. Try for the crown and send all the routes in a day, where the prize back in the '90s used to be a six pack of beer. Routes are listed from right to left, as encountered on the trail down from the top:

R->L:
A. Springs View, 10a, 1p.
B. Short Crack, 9, 1p.
C. Chickens at Risk, 7, 1p, 20', bolts.
D. Common Misconception, 11c, 1p.
E. The CHCA, 10d, 1p, bolts.
F. Edolecence, 11a, 1p, 18', bolts.
G. Damage I Have Done, 12c, 1p, bolts.
H. Project, 13+, 1p, 3 bolts.

I wrote the names and ratings on the bottoms of most of the routes....

A few routes on the right side of the wall may be missing hangers due to some pathetic loser stealing them in the mid '90s, I have made an effort to replace almost all of the stolen hangers, but if you want to chip in that would be great! Have fun....

Getting There Suggest change

Per Not Trevor: this land is now on private property.

Head in the west entrance to the Garden of the Gods and drive past the Balanced Rock to enter Rampart Range Road on your next left. From here, drive 4.9 miles up the washboarded and rutty road until you get to a sharp right handed turn. There is a ten foot tall, ripped up juniper tree there, as well as a cairn with a blue mirror on the left side of the road, and this is where you should park(not a real parking area, just a small pullout). Follow a climbers trail that starts by hopping over a tree and following the cairns and logs down the hill into a small wooded valley, which trends east and brings you to the top of a hill. Follow the trail east across the hill and head down past more cairns until the rocks begin to turn Verdon Gorge blue and grey. The trail should deposit you at the top of the cliff, overlooking a small valley as well as colorado springs to the east, and Cedar Heights directly south. walk down the left side of the cliff, where you will encounter the first route (Springs View 5.11a).

4 Total Climbs

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Location: Ed Rock (Permanently closed) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Ed Rock (Permanently closed)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Chickens at Risk
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
The CHCA
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Edolecence
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Damage I Have Done
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chickens at Risk
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
The CHCA
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Edolecence
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Damage I Have Done
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ed Rock (Permanently closed) »

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