Good crack training in southern NM or AZ?

Does anyone have any suggestions for locations of good crack climbs in southern AZ or southern NM? I live in Las Cruces, but am in Tucson fairly regularly. I know there are some great basalt cracks up north in both states, but its hard to fit in a roadtrip to these spots on the average weekend.

Seems like there should be some nice cracks stashed away in either Cochise Stronghold or the Organ Mountains, anybody know of any?

Thanks a bunch,

Nate

I'm not big into trad (yet) but check out percha creek up by Hillsborow if you haven't already. It seems that place was similar to some of the basalt in northern new mexico and had a couple of good trad leads.

Good question. Im up in Las Vegas for the summer and yesterday after work I went out and tried to get on a crack climb and had a hard time just getting off the groud. I plan on practicing with a self belay set up here for the rest of the summer. I would really like to find some more cracks when I get back to Tucson as some day I would love to go to Indian Creek.

In the stronghold the first pitch of Ewephoria has some slab/crack climbing if you are looking for something moderate, pitch three of Abracadaver on Rockfellow Dome is just about perfect, pitch two is excellent if you like off off width. Forest Lawn is also a classic in the Rockfellow Group on Bastion Towers. Coati corner has some good layback corner/crack on Westworld dome. The first pitch of Bee Line on the Stronghold Dome is a must do, perfect fingers and 4 stars all the way. Shake and Bake (also on Stronghold Dome) is a good off width crack. I'm sure that some of the old timers are insulted at the climbs I didn't mention, but these are some good ones. Also, if you want to climb cracks, Joshua Tree is 6 hours from southern Arizona...that's about as crack happy as you can get.

Chimney Rock up on Mt. Lemmon has some great pure crack routes. Here are some of the classics:

Single Lens Reflex
Centerpiece
Crows Nest

Also on Mt. Lemmon you should do Lizard Marmalade Direct. One of the best single pitch crack routes around.

The climbs on lemmon and the stronghold you described, are they pure crack climbs? As in no hands and no fee outside the crack? You have to truly climb jams for both hands and feet? Ive climbed Ewephoria a few times and the first pitch has some cracks but you do not at all have to hand jam up them, prolly could make it easier but you dont have to.

Mendoza Canyon: Table for Two has the 4th pitch sporting a nice 5.9 crack that is about 70 feet, then exit to face for 5.10a crux. The third pitch start with a nice crack also, then goes to face. It used to be way run out before some bolts were added with permission of FA party. Otherwise, not much crack climbing there. There is also Don's Crack on Baboquivari, which involves a hefty approach, is at least five pitches and is pretty much all crack and rated 5.9 or so. Beeline, as previously mention, in the east Stronghold, is a super sweet crack not to be missed!

the Tooth has some good crack.
see mountainproject.com/v/new_m…

Percha is kinda crappy for my taste, but there are some lines there that take gear and are worth doing, namely mountainproject.com/v/new_m… and the one to the left of it

I agree that Beeline is fantastic (and pure) and good to learn on as long as you are comfortable with the rest of the climb. Many other climbs at Cochise have crack sections, often as part of multi-pitch climbs. For example, Mystery of the Desert has a nice hand crack way up near the top. Rapture of the Steep on Lemmon has a very nice pure finger crack, but it is a little harder. Crab Corner at Windy Point is a 5.8 that is a nice corner with a finger crack. You can go to an area like Chimney Rock or Troll Wall and just try to jam anything that looks jam-able even if you don't have to do it.

FUNGUY wrote:There are no cracks in AZ.

Should head up to Paradise Forks and then say there are no cracks in AZ! I would also suggest Oak Creek and Sedona. Plenty of crack fun to be had at all of these places.

ryan dillon wrote: Should head up to Paradise Forks and then say there are no cracks in AZ! I would also suggest Oak Creek and Sedona. Plenty of crack fun to be had at all of these places.

Funguy wouldn't know, even though he says he's living at the Grand Canyon.

Nate,

Unfortunately there are very few pure cracks in southern AZ. You might find a pitch here and a pitch there, but that's about it. Most of these were described by the first guy that posted about cracks in the stronghold. These are legitimate crack climbs, some of which are of very high quality, they're just very spread out.

Thanks for all the excellent info folks! Planning on doing the north chimney on Castleton Tower in the fall, so I am trying to get good with the crack (climbing). I've been practicing with a wood crack-machine, but at 8 ft tall, about 4 or 5 jams is the limit...

Chloride Canyon, West of TorC, has some fabulous trad crack, but it's a bit challenging for "training" (and there's tempting face holds that sometimes work out).

On Lemmon some easier cracks are Jambrosia at Windy Point a nice pure crack, 5.8. The Cresent and Soldier of Fortune(?) are ok, they're at Hidden Jewels, 5.6 and 5.7. Chimney Rock and the Hearthstone have climbs with sections of crack. I remember doing a moderate crack at Paradox Rock.

Mike Dudley wrote:The climbs on lemmon and the stronghold you described, are they pure crack climbs? As in no hands and no fee outside the crack? You have to truly climb jams for both hands and feet? Ive climbed Ewephoria a few times and the first pitch has some cracks but you do not at all have to hand jam up them, prolly could make it easier but you dont have to.

Pure crack climbs are a rare find on Lemmon. Chimney rock does have quite a bit of jamming, but there are always stretches of face in between...that is just the nature of the Lemmon beast. As for the climbs in Cochise some are more pure than others. If you want a pure jam crack i would say that Bee Line is your best option. For better info I would try to get a hold of Scott Ayers...he has guide book plans for the stronghold that have been in the works for years. Other folks like Eric Rhicard and Jim Scott are accessible and quite personable. Send them an email on MP and I'm sure they'll drag you all around the stronghold.

FUNGUY wrote:There are no cracks in AZ.

Paradise Forks would beg to differ.

Trust Bob Broilo's advice on climbing areas, he has the obscurity/new area itch really bad. Besides, Winston and Chloride are worth the trip.

For someone from Las Cruces, the Columns is the best choice with great introductory cracks reminiscent of Jtree, albeit only a few cracks. Evidently access has changed since I was last there so check on that before heading out. Our crack climbing is limited in NM and generally is kinda lame. Toprope or lead for as many weekends at the Forks as you can, get your butt kicked, and repeat is probably the best advice for crack climbing in the NM/AZ area.

W

FUNGUY wrote:I even have the first guide to Paradise Forks by Mike Lawson. Even hung with the pioneer crowd.

What a crock.

Mike Lawson was not even a real climber (much less an author.)
He was a character made up by the locals for use when they wanted to go public or not put their own names on routes.

Jeff G. wrote:.. pure crack routes. Single Lens Reflex Centerpiece Crows Nest

Say what ?
Single Lens Reflex - a Tucson style crack, which means you mostly face climb.

Centerpiece - ditto, except for one or two moves at the top where you actually get to jam.

Crows Nest - a stemming problem